Cycle Sardinia – the Giro

Alghero went pink for the start of the Giro

It's only a bike race. Yes, 180-odd skinny guys pedalling like mad for 3500 km. 

But that having been said, watching the build-up and start of the Giro d'Italia, it is easy to see that it is so much more than the guys on the bikes. Let alone the fact that the whole palaver has to move around the country with a new start and finish almost daily.

30 Police Motorcycles ready for the start - which one caused the crash on the Blockhaus climb?

Without a doubt, it is a feat of organisation. Getting all the bikes, riders, support teams, cars, motorcycles in the right place at the right time. Joe Public, meanwhile, is free to wander among it all. That’s impressive.

The police have rustled up 30 motorcyclists, umpteen cars and vans. Flocks of senior Carabinieri strut their stuff with medals and gold braid prominently displayed.

The caravan of sponsors which leads the cyclists

Then the sponsors with their village of small stalls, and their caravan of cars and vans which lead the cyclists. The mountains of give-aways for the fans along the route. The huge stage and presentation on the eve of the start. Photographers, broadcasters, tv camera crews, tall thin girls to promote everything from detergent to coffee.

All around the town, dozens of bikes sprayed and wrapped pink are parked. Pink is the colour of the Gazette sporting newspaper which founded the event. Pink is the colour of Giro's "yellow" jersey. Pink geraniums brighten every window box and bike carrier. The town and surrounding roads are spruced up and in the pink.

And along the route, the Giro will take, roads have been resurfaces, potholes filled and roadside rubbish collected. 

On the eve of the start, a big show celebrating the 100th Giro

And in the midst of it all, people with bikes; young, middle-aged, old and ancient people, electro bikes, racing, touring, kids, hybrid, chopper, BMX and plain old knockabout everday unloved bikes with their riders came to watch, dream, oggle, envy, photograph, gasp, gape, and most of all, love the atmosphere all created by the simple bicycle.

They're off - Lukas Pöstlberger (centre) who won the first stage

Everyone was in the mood

Nairo Quintana - will he win?

Cycle Sardinia1: the booking conundrum

Threatening clouds over Alghero as the ride to Bosa begins

Riding around central Europe, you are never far from a place to eat or somewhere to stay for the night. Who needs to book ahead? Part of the fun of cycle touring is not knowing as you set out each morning, where you will end up at the end of the day.

Poring over the map after arriving for the first time in Sardinia, it was clear that away from the coast, towns and villages were widely spread with little sign of habitation in between. Choosing scenic roads (marked by green lines) we didn't take much account of the terrain. 

Where is the sun? Despite wet and windy conditions, the ride had to begin

The big question was: "is there any accommodation in these tiny villages?"  For once we decided it was prudent to make some reservations on line using the booking service which seems to have penetrated even the remotest rural community. 

A short four-day tour along the coast and returning on an inland road would bring us back to Alghero in time to watch the start of the Giro d'Italia. A coast road should be largely at sea level shouldn't it? It would be a good introduction to cycling in Sardinia but as a precaution we booked each night along the way. 

The loneliness of the long distance cyclist, grinding up the hills

We soon began to learn a few lessons. Day 1 was windy, chilly and with rain forecast. We had to get going - after all, rooms were booked for the next four nights in four different locations. Accommodation for the first night was only 50km anyway.

But what a ride! We climbed and climbed, in total 1000m, following the coast road south from Alghero. The wind in our faces and the clouds darkening above. The forecast was correct and we experienced a few sharp showers blasted along by the wind. For the whole distance there was not a single place where we could warm up with coffee. The road climbs steadily with a few flying descents, and, at least, most of the final 10km into Bosa were fast and effortless. 

Profile of the 50km from Alghero to Bosa

Colourful houses in Bosa

This was more climbing than we had bargained for and some belated research showed that the following three days would follow the same pattern - in fact they would be tougher.

After 40 years of cycling and years of touring, we were still caught by the Catch 22 conundrum: Book ahead and you really have to go the distance. Don't book ahead and take a chance: will you find somewhere to sleep and eat? Over a period of days the problem becomes increasingly challenging.

Writing this having just walked through this colourful coastal town in a fruitless search for food we are subject to another feature of cycling in Sardinia. You may have finished the day's ride early but you are going to have to wait until 8pm before you can get anything to eat. 

Nevertheless, challenging or not, there are some wonderful views along the way, some very empty roads and, at this time of year, the verges are overflowing with yellow, pink and purple blossoms.

Bosa - well worth the struggle to get there - and to leave

Flat white heaven revisited

It's great when the wind is behind you

Where can you ride on the flat at 20kmh without pedalling? Meet penguins crossing the road? Have a dozen opportunities for excellent coffee and take a dip in the sea - all within 40km?

It is same place where, rounding a bend, you can meet a wind so strong it almost drives you backward. Where seemingly vertical urban streets can leave you gasping. And where an earth tremor could upset your balance at any time.

This is Wellington, "the coolest little capital in the world" famed for it's strong blustery winds and its claim to be the birthplace of the flat white coffee. It's said to have more cafés and coffee roasters per head of population than any other city.

Wellington authorities are responding to the growing interest in cycling with improved bike lanes and signposting. The short ride from the airport to the city centre follows the harbour shore around beaches, bays and headlands.

The final stretch along Oriental Parade is shared with joggers, skaters and strollers. Half the population seems to be on the move. The shared route rolls right around the CBD to the docks where at present there are ups and downs and cracks to negotiate - results of the November earthquake.

Colourful beach homes around Island Bay

Breakfast at the Beach House

New Zealand's north island has some wonderful cycling opportunities and when using Wellington as a base for day trips, the trains take bikes up to the Wairarapa and to the Rimutuka hills without charge, though there are some rush hour restrictions. There's beautiful wide open countryside and just a few towns accessible along the Rimutuka Rail Trail using the old train track.

(see previous blog)

A couple of years back I wrote about the "flat ride in flat white heaven". Revisiting the route recently, breakfast was served by a former mountain biking champion, Myra Moller at the Beach House Café. Formerly the Bach, it has had a complete makeover and now has a typically Kiwi, adventurous brunch menu.  The route from Lyall Bay around to Island Bay follows the coast, ducking in and out of bays and rocky promontories. It's not far but there's a high rate of stunning views per kilometer.

europeanrandonneur.blogspot.com/2015/12/flat-ride-in-flat-white-heaven.html

Take a dip at Breaker Bay

The Flat White ride hasn't changed. It's just as beautiful, just as challenging on a blustery day rounding each headland. One coffee stop omitted last time is Scorch-o-rama in Scorching Bay. Great atmosphere and brilliant setting on the edge of the beach.

Trackie?

Stuck for a place to ride on a summer Sunday afternoon: try track racing at the Hataitai stadium. Friendly atmosphere on the terraces, fierce competition on the banked outdoor track.

https://www.pnp.org.nz/track

@wellington velodrome

Thanks, Burkes Cycles

Many thanks to Burkes Cycles in Kilbirnie for a pair of trusty bikes. This is one of Wellington's oldest cycle specialists, where you can expect sound advice and knowledgeable service.

https://www.burkescycles.co.nz

The wind needle sculpture (right) indicates the strength of the ever present breeze. When it reaches 45º, give up hope of rounding the next headland

New Zealand's lovely, lonely roads

The huge, rolling emptiness of the Wairarapa

Twenty years ago I spent a Christmas holiday cycling round New Zealand's north island. Was it enjoyable? Well, yes and no. Great scenery, friendly people, empty roads, yes. Horrible roads, no people, lots of roadkill, also yes.

20 years later. A short trip on borrowed bikes. Great scenery, friendly people and empty roads, yes. But some things have changed.

Sheep, sheep, sheep - here along the road from Hastings to Waioru

Cycle touring has arrived and New Zealand now has a number of designated trails. These can be linked together into longer trips on both the north and south islands. The routes will take you out of the main cities and into beautiful, sparsely populated countryside. There is good information on the cycle trail website.

http://www.nzcycletrail.com

 As it was: "metalled" road
in the Coromandel 

From Wellington northwards the  main road winds and climbs steeply over the Rimutuka range. But now there is the Rimutuka Rail Trail which follows (more gently)  the old track through the mountains to the Wairarapa. It is 118km and from there quiet roads lead to Hawkes Bay and beyond. The scenery is magnificent in its huge, rolling emptiness.

The short ride this Christmas was a reminder of the distances between towns and communities where food, drink and accommodation is available. There are roads which run for more than 100km with virtually no habitation of any kind. These often feature many steep climbs.

The scenery hasn't changed
 from 20 years ago

Free camping - finding a spot to put up a tent is approved, generally safe (there’s nothing poisonous in NZ) and commonplace, but of course it means carrying extra gear. The food and drink situation has improved to the extent that the Kiwis have discovered coffee and almost every little town will serve up a decent flat white and a great fried breakfast. However cafés can be a day's ride or more apart.

Very steep hills on the Gentle Annie

Some country roads are a joy to ride on. Reasonable surfaces, little traffic. But "metalled road" means gravel surface, dusty as cars and pick-ups pass. The number of roads is limited and chances are you will, from time to time, end up on a highway. The coarse "heavy" surface drags at the wheels. Usually there's a strip on each side which vehicles duck into when being overtaken. The surface here can be pretty rough and the final resting place for all manner of roadkill.

20 years ago the Wanganui
River Road was very rough

The rural “Gentle Annie” road between Fernhill on the outskirts of Hastings and Waioru has a warning at the start: no petrol for 139 km. Not only is there no petrol, but there is also no fuel for cyclists. No café, no pub. Just a few isolated farmsteads, a heck of a lot of sheep - and hills that would weaken the resolve of the hardiest bike tourist.

 

The beautiful Wanganui River Road - now with a good surface

The Wanganui River Road between Pipiriki and Wanganui has changed for the better. 20 years ago it was a stony track but now it is surfaced. Otherwise it is as quiet and stunningly beautiful as before. The camping spot beside the road I used on my last visit, is still there. Bear in mind, if travelling north, from Pipiriki to Raetihi, is a seriously long, steep climb.

The Wanganui River

Kiwis are as open and friendly can be. But there aren't many of them in a fair size country. So expect some lonely riding though you can expect a few words of greeting from any cyclist you do come across.

Links

http://www.nzcycletrail.com

http://www.cycletour.org.nz

Plenty of New Zealand's unique woodland on the North Island