There's no better way to see the world than on a bike. Join me on my rides around Europe to discover what lies beyond my handlebars

Sunday 25 October 2015

Grimming - gorgeous not grim


The Grimming, 2350m colossus
Riding round the Grimming, a huge colossus of rock, 2350m high lording it over the Enns valley, is a circuit we have never left until so late in the year – but what a spectacle!

It wasn’t promising at first: 2oC and a thick blanket of cloud. No sign of the Grimming. But soon the giant began to make its presence felt, the cloud broke up within minutes revealing snow-capped peaks and grey, bare rock above a riot of golds, yellows and greens on the lower flanks.

The circuit follows tiny roads  with little traffic. The Enns valley is around 600m and the route climbs out of Irdning to 850m in sharp stages through woods. It runs through the meadows of the higher valley to Bad Mittendorf then swings left down to the Salza Reservoir.


The Salza Reservoir a blaze of colour
“Reservoir” sounds pretty bland. The Salza river once ran through a steep narrow gorge now flooded behind a 50m high dam. The water is so clear and still, that peering down, you could be looking into a tree-lined abyss. The reflection of the autumn trees doubles the impact of the sun on the glowing golds, browns, reds and green.

A barrier blocks the way. The route is marked as a bike route but signposted forbidding traffic or hikers. The road surface is sometimes broken, rocks sometimes tumble from the towering cliffs on one side of the track. On the other side, the water, with a fence often broken and rotten. But you can ride through – probably at your own risk.
 
The water so clear - it's like peering into a tree-lined abyss

A couple of short, dark tunnels bring the track to the dam and from there, after a short sharp climb its back to the Enns valley in a winding, steep descent.

As you ride round the mountain, there are views of the Grimming from every angle. This is no mountain for a Sunday afternoon stroll. But from below, its grey walls, topped with a dusting of snow against the blue sky, and the colour spectacular on its lower slopes, make it a great autumn circuit.
 
Coffee on board - in a flask in the bottle holder
Log
64km 721 altitude metres. Start and finish: Pruggern

Coffee
In a flask in my bottle holder

You said it!
 As a kid, I had a dream – I wanted to own my own bicycle – John Lennon
(I had the same dream but had to wait till I was 30)


The Grimming  from the road towards Bad Mittendorf

Near Bad Mittendorf - the mountain is ever present







Profile of the circuit clearly shows the steep climb out of Irdning

Monday 12 October 2015

Autumn riding


Kitzsteinhorn from the far side of the Zeller See

5oC. Feels even colder. Gloves, beany over the ears, over-the-knee shorts. Setting off on a crisp morning, cranking up the speed to get warm. Chill wind gnawing at the cheeks. Autumn riding gets you going.

Classic autumn picnic spot beside the Pillersee

As the day warms so do the extremities – or is it just the blood racing up and down? Ease up a little. Enjoy the view. Mountains flaunting their craggy cliffs in the crystal air. Sugar-coated tops glisten against the bright blue sky. Dark green evergreens on the flanks are spiked with gold flashes as the intermingled broadleaf trees turn.

As the cycling season draws to a close and the snows gather in the distance ready to close the bike routes altogether, there is an urgency in the air. Just let me get a few more rides in. Almost any weather will do.

But it is becoming less likely we will manage much more – last year’s totals remain unchallenged. We’ve had some great runs. Thoughts begin to turn to winter sports…and where we will ride to next year.


At the end of the ride, it is still chilly but we are warm, content, feeling the benefit of those endorphins that tell you, it’s great to ride out on a cold, autumn morning.

Coffee
Back home. Espresso Exclusive beans roasted and blended by Teekorb. Zell am See. Dark and bold.


You said it!
Nothing compares to the simple pleasures of a bike ride - John F. Kennedy