There's no better way to see the world than on a bike. Join me on my rides around Europe to discover what lies beyond my handlebars

Wednesday 8 February 2017

Flat white heaven revisited

It's great when the wind is behind you
Where can you ride on the flat at 20kmh without pedalling? Meet penguins crossing the road? Have a dozen opportunities for excellent coffee and take a dip in the sea - all within 40km?

It is same place where, rounding a bend, you can meet a wind so strong it almost drives you backward. Where seemingly vertical urban streets can leave you gasping. And where an earth tremor could upset your balance at any time.

This is Wellington, "the coolest little capital in the world" famed for it's strong blustery winds and its claim to be the birthplace of the flat white coffee. It's said to have more cafés and coffee roasters per head of population than any other city.

Wellington authorities are responding to the growing interest in cycling with improved bike lanes and signposting. The short ride from the airport to the city centre follows the harbour shore around beaches, bays and headlands.

The final stretch along Oriental Parade is shared with joggers, skaters and strollers. Half the population seems to be on the move. The shared route rolls right around the CBD to the docks where at present there are ups and downs and cracks to negotiate - results of the November earthquake.

Colourful beach homes around Island Bay
Breakfast at the Beach House

New Zealand's north island has some wonderful cycling opportunities and when using Wellington as a base for day trips, the trains take bikes up to the Wairarapa and to the Rimutuka hills without charge, though there are some rush hour restrictions. There's beautiful wide open countryside and just a few towns accessible along the Rimutuka Rail Trail using the old train track.
(see previous blog)

A couple of years back I wrote about the "flat ride in flat white heaven". Revisiting the route recently, breakfast was served by a former mountain biking champion, Myra Moller at the Beach House Café. Formerly the Bach, it has had a complete makeover and now has a typically Kiwi, adventurous brunch menu.  The route from Lyall Bay around to Island Bay follows the coast, ducking in and out of bays and rocky promontories. It's not far but there's a high rate of stunning views per kilometer.


Take a dip at Breaker Bay

The Flat White ride hasn't changed. It's just as beautiful, just as challenging on a blustery day rounding each headland. One coffee stop omitted last time is Scorch-o-rama in Scorching Bay. Great atmosphere and brilliant setting on the edge of the beach.


Trackie?
Stuck for a place to ride on a summer Sunday afternoon: try track racing at the Hataitai stadium. Friendly atmosphere on the terraces, fierce competition on the banked outdoor track.
@wellington velodrome

Thanks, Burkes Cycles
Many thanks to Burkes Cycles in Kilbirnie for a pair of trusty bikes. This is one of Wellington's oldest cycle specialists, where you can expect sound advice and knowledgeable service.


The wind needle sculpture (right) indicates the strength of the ever present breeze. When it reaches 45º, give up hope of rounding the next headland



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