Provence - in the Giant's shadow

Méthamis - one of many hilltop villages

How would you like all your holiday rides dominated by a giant? A giant so big it looms above you everywhere you go. A giant that threatens, that beckons and that promises pain if you take up its challenge. A giant that entices, tempts and seduces.

This giant is the Géant de Provence. The mountain on every cycle famatic's bucket list. Almost 2000m high it dominates the landscape. Visible from 70km away. This giant is different to the giant cols and peaks of the Pyrenenees. It stands alone unchallenged.

However there is more to cycling in the Vaucluse area of Provence than belting up the Mont Ventoux seeing only your time and heart rate. 

 

Hills may be long but are steady and do-able

The air is heavy. The sun, hot. The Mediterranean light shimmers.  Colours are sharper apgainst the blue sky. Villages of honey–coloured stone, never more than a few kilometers apart are linked by a confusing web of country lanes. Some stand aloft rocky prominences. Others squeeze the traffic to a crawl through narrow streets. Each is different. Each has the same charm. 

 

Lavender fields on the Sault plateau - a heady scent at harvest time

The roads swelter in the summer sun. Dusty hedgerows of wild herbs giving off a heady scent. Vineyards on either side with tempting signs offering wine tasting. On the Sault plateau the lavender bushes are aligned in the rocky soil with military precision. Approaching harvest time the air is heavy with the scent and the vistas blue. Olive groves and cherry orchards. The countryside is bursting with goodness

Honey-coloured stone villages are never far apart

The tourism department produces a fine set of suggested circuits ranging from an easy 25km to a challenging 120km. Route profiles and services along the way are detailed along with a map. The markers along the routes are sometimes hard to find but are hardly needed.

 

On the D5, a steady climb with the bonus of a ride back through the Gorges de la Nesque

One of the highlights of the area is the Gorges de la Nesque, 20km of twisting cliff-edge riding with huge views. Recommended is the D5 road from Méthamis a steady climb through an landscape empty of habitation. A beautiful road with views across to the gorge. The hills, like this one, can go on a bit. But they are generally do–able. The road signs clear and markers indicate distances and altitude.,

 

Flassan - nestling at the foot of the Géant

People on bikes are everywhere in this area. Most motorists are considerate (if sometimes frustrated). In Vaucluse the bike rules the road. Best of all is the friendliness of the french cyclists. Though some tourists fail to acknowledge other riders, the french, on minimalist racers, have a word of greeting or encouragement for others enjoying the pleasure of riding in Provence. 

The Géant awakes

So though the Géant de Provence may dominate your visit, a ride up to it’s bald summit is not essential but may become irresistible. If so, success will be a highlight of your visit to this cyclist heaven. 

 

The bald summit is always in sight

Somewhere to stay:  Auberge du Vin, a b&b surrounded on four sides by vineyards, down a dusty road. An old stone house on the north side of a walled courtyard. A great tree provides shade, a wisteria cools the large, stone communal table. A pool amid ancient stone walls. Shade beneath a fig tree. Easy–going, helpful and obliging hosts. French breakfasts with excellent coffee. Quiet. And continuously changing views of the Géant across the vineyards. 

www.aubergeduvin.com/

Auberge du Vin, surrounded by vineyards with great views of the Mont Ventoux

Flat out in the Camargue

85km and not a gear change needed

What better antidote to climbing the Pyrenean giant cols that a day's ride in the Camargue? After all that grunting and grinding, after the crawling upward towards the heavens, after the pain of getting down the stairs for breakfast the next day, a spin through the Camargue will put you right in no time.

Carmarge? Camargue? What's that? Well, it’s some way eastward across southern France to where the Rhône flows into the Med. Basically, it’s flat. Totally and utterly flat. That doesn’t mean it’s not interesting. There’s bulls and birds and white horses plus the opportunity to learn a bit about salt.

The Camargue is a huge salt plain. Or is it huge areas of shallow salty water held in the arms of sandy, salty spits? Here there are mighty views, massive blue skies, salt flats and weird plant life. 

 

Flamingos are just knee deep in the huge étangs

Flamingos stand up to their knees in the „étaings“ which, though huge are just 2m deep. They are home to millions of birds who come and go though the seasons. The bulls are black and bred for fighting in the ring — but also make good steaks. The white horses are everywhere, are a Camargue icon, but don’t seem to serve much purpose.

 

Mighty views and big skies

Some of the roads, which look almost non-existent on the map, are long and straight and horribly bumpy. The old surface is worn to shreds and there are plenty of holes big enough to swallow your front wheel. But they are not all too bad. There are also sand tracks and gravel roads.

 

Why does the sea water turn pink as it evaporates?

The good news is that riding the Camargue, you can easily boost your annual distance score. On the downside you won’t do anything for your altitude–climbed total. A day's cruising here is a pleasure but you should check all the bolts and nuts on your bike afterwards.

 

Weird plants and lots of salty sand - and no hills

A place to stay: if you are nostalgic for the ‘60s, try Les Cabanettes near St Gilles (see below). It's an architectural classic and doesn’t seem to have been altered since it first opened in the 1960s. Very dated and the restaurant no longer operates. But it is an experience.

Original poster

Pyrenees: where the weather wins

Sunshine all the way: Languedoc, Camargue, Provence, Cevennes, the Pyrenees. Southern France is good for cycling. Hot, sunny weather. Choose where you want to ride and...go for it.

But it doesn’t always quite work out like that. After a few days riding in the Eastern Pyrenees around the town of Foix, a big col is planned in the high mountains. Bagneres de Bigorre is sandwiched between two cols, the d'Espin and  it’s more famous brother, the Tourmalet. All roads from Bagneres go in the same direction: upwards. Everyone on a bike is intent on the big one, the long haul to 2000m. 

„Done that“ a few years ago, so this year's target was the Col d'Espin at 1480m. But the weather was having none of it. It’s all very well struggling up a mountain for the psychological high. But if you can't see when or if you have reached the top because a cloud is sitting on it, all the effort is wasted. And riding down 1200 vertical meters in the rain is neither wise nor fun. Sometimes the weather has to win and common sense prevail.

 

Topping out on the Col des Polomières

But all is not lost. An afternoon outing to the little Col des Polomières at 810m proved to be more than a walk in the park. And riding on through Lies to make a circuit, where the descent is too steep to let it rip, makes this a challenging but short circuit.

 

In the Gorges de Ribaou

Around Foix there are plenty of more modest passes to climb even when it is overcast. From Saint Girons lovely rides along through the Gorges de Ribaou to the Salat, Garbet and Ustou valleys culminating in a climb to the Col de Latrape at 1111m.

There's plenty of good riding to be enjoyed along the length of the Pyrenees. But this is mountain country and here the weather changes fast. And here the weather wins.