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| The huge, rolling emptiness of the Wairarapa |
Twenty years ago I spent a Christmas holiday cycling
round New Zealand's north island. Was it enjoyable? Well, yes and no. Great
scenery, friendly people, empty roads, yes. Horrible roads, no people, lots of
roadkill, also yes.
20 years later. A short trip on borrowed bikes. Great
scenery, friendly people and empty roads, yes. But some things have changed.
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| Sheep, sheep, sheep - here along the road from Hastings to Waioru |
Cycle touring has arrived and New Zealand now has a
number of designated trails. These can be linked together into longer trips on
both the north and south islands. The routes will take you out of the main
cities and into beautiful, sparsely populated countryside. There is good
information on the cycle trail website.
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| As it was: "metalled" road in the Coromandel |
The short ride this Christmas was a reminder of the
distances between towns and communities where food, drink and accommodation is
available. There are roads which run for more than 100km with virtually no
habitation of any kind. These often feature many steep climbs.
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| The scenery hasn't changed from 20 years ago |
Free camping - finding a spot to put up a tent is
approved, generally safe (there’s nothing poisonous in NZ) and commonplace, but
of course it means carrying extra gear. The food and drink situation has
improved to the extent that the Kiwis have discovered coffee and almost every
little town will serve up a decent flat white and a great fried breakfast.
However cafés can be a day's ride or more apart.
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| Very steep hills on the Gentle Annie |
Some country roads are a joy to ride on. Reasonable
surfaces, little traffic. But "metalled road" means gravel surface,
dusty as cars and pick-ups pass. The number of roads is limited and chances are
you will, from time to time, end up on a highway. The coarse "heavy"
surface drags at the wheels. Usually there's a strip on each side which
vehicles duck into when being overtaken. The surface here can be pretty rough
and the final resting place for all manner of roadkill.
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| 20 years ago the Wanganui River Road was very rough |
The rural “Gentle Annie” road between Fernhill on the
outskirts of Hastings and Waioru has a warning at the start: no petrol for 139
km. Not only is there no petrol, but there is also no fuel for cyclists. No
café, no pub. Just a few isolated farmsteads, a heck of a lot of sheep - and
hills that would weaken the resolve of the hardiest bike tourist.
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| The beautiful Wanganui River Road - now with a good surface |
The Wanganui River Road between Pipiriki and Wanganui
has changed for the better. 20 years ago it was a stony track but now it is
surfaced. Otherwise it is as quiet and stunningly beautiful as before. The
camping spot beside the road I used on my last visit, is still there. Bear in
mind, if travelling north, from Pipiriki to Raetihi, is a seriously long, steep
climb.
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| The Wanganui River |
Kiwis are as open and friendly can be. But there
aren't many of them in a fair size country. So expect some lonely riding though
you can expect a few words of greeting from any cyclist you do come across.
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| Plenty of New Zealand's unique woodland on the North Island |
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