Flat white heaven revisited

It's great when the wind is behind you

Where can you ride on the flat at 20kmh without pedalling? Meet penguins crossing the road? Have a dozen opportunities for excellent coffee and take a dip in the sea - all within 40km?

It is same place where, rounding a bend, you can meet a wind so strong it almost drives you backward. Where seemingly vertical urban streets can leave you gasping. And where an earth tremor could upset your balance at any time.

This is Wellington, "the coolest little capital in the world" famed for it's strong blustery winds and its claim to be the birthplace of the flat white coffee. It's said to have more cafés and coffee roasters per head of population than any other city.

Wellington authorities are responding to the growing interest in cycling with improved bike lanes and signposting. The short ride from the airport to the city centre follows the harbour shore around beaches, bays and headlands.

The final stretch along Oriental Parade is shared with joggers, skaters and strollers. Half the population seems to be on the move. The shared route rolls right around the CBD to the docks where at present there are ups and downs and cracks to negotiate - results of the November earthquake.

Colourful beach homes around Island Bay

Breakfast at the Beach House

New Zealand's north island has some wonderful cycling opportunities and when using Wellington as a base for day trips, the trains take bikes up to the Wairarapa and to the Rimutuka hills without charge, though there are some rush hour restrictions. There's beautiful wide open countryside and just a few towns accessible along the Rimutuka Rail Trail using the old train track.

(see previous blog)

A couple of years back I wrote about the "flat ride in flat white heaven". Revisiting the route recently, breakfast was served by a former mountain biking champion, Myra Moller at the Beach House Café. Formerly the Bach, it has had a complete makeover and now has a typically Kiwi, adventurous brunch menu.  The route from Lyall Bay around to Island Bay follows the coast, ducking in and out of bays and rocky promontories. It's not far but there's a high rate of stunning views per kilometer.

europeanrandonneur.blogspot.com/2015/12/flat-ride-in-flat-white-heaven.html

Take a dip at Breaker Bay

The Flat White ride hasn't changed. It's just as beautiful, just as challenging on a blustery day rounding each headland. One coffee stop omitted last time is Scorch-o-rama in Scorching Bay. Great atmosphere and brilliant setting on the edge of the beach.

Trackie?

Stuck for a place to ride on a summer Sunday afternoon: try track racing at the Hataitai stadium. Friendly atmosphere on the terraces, fierce competition on the banked outdoor track.

https://www.pnp.org.nz/track

@wellington velodrome

Thanks, Burkes Cycles

Many thanks to Burkes Cycles in Kilbirnie for a pair of trusty bikes. This is one of Wellington's oldest cycle specialists, where you can expect sound advice and knowledgeable service.

https://www.burkescycles.co.nz

The wind needle sculpture (right) indicates the strength of the ever present breeze. When it reaches 45º, give up hope of rounding the next headland

New Zealand's lovely, lonely roads

The huge, rolling emptiness of the Wairarapa

Twenty years ago I spent a Christmas holiday cycling round New Zealand's north island. Was it enjoyable? Well, yes and no. Great scenery, friendly people, empty roads, yes. Horrible roads, no people, lots of roadkill, also yes.

20 years later. A short trip on borrowed bikes. Great scenery, friendly people and empty roads, yes. But some things have changed.

Sheep, sheep, sheep - here along the road from Hastings to Waioru

Cycle touring has arrived and New Zealand now has a number of designated trails. These can be linked together into longer trips on both the north and south islands. The routes will take you out of the main cities and into beautiful, sparsely populated countryside. There is good information on the cycle trail website.

http://www.nzcycletrail.com

 As it was: "metalled" road
in the Coromandel 

From Wellington northwards the  main road winds and climbs steeply over the Rimutuka range. But now there is the Rimutuka Rail Trail which follows (more gently)  the old track through the mountains to the Wairarapa. It is 118km and from there quiet roads lead to Hawkes Bay and beyond. The scenery is magnificent in its huge, rolling emptiness.

The short ride this Christmas was a reminder of the distances between towns and communities where food, drink and accommodation is available. There are roads which run for more than 100km with virtually no habitation of any kind. These often feature many steep climbs.

The scenery hasn't changed
 from 20 years ago

Free camping - finding a spot to put up a tent is approved, generally safe (there’s nothing poisonous in NZ) and commonplace, but of course it means carrying extra gear. The food and drink situation has improved to the extent that the Kiwis have discovered coffee and almost every little town will serve up a decent flat white and a great fried breakfast. However cafés can be a day's ride or more apart.

Very steep hills on the Gentle Annie

Some country roads are a joy to ride on. Reasonable surfaces, little traffic. But "metalled road" means gravel surface, dusty as cars and pick-ups pass. The number of roads is limited and chances are you will, from time to time, end up on a highway. The coarse "heavy" surface drags at the wheels. Usually there's a strip on each side which vehicles duck into when being overtaken. The surface here can be pretty rough and the final resting place for all manner of roadkill.

20 years ago the Wanganui
River Road was very rough

The rural “Gentle Annie” road between Fernhill on the outskirts of Hastings and Waioru has a warning at the start: no petrol for 139 km. Not only is there no petrol, but there is also no fuel for cyclists. No café, no pub. Just a few isolated farmsteads, a heck of a lot of sheep - and hills that would weaken the resolve of the hardiest bike tourist.

 

The beautiful Wanganui River Road - now with a good surface

The Wanganui River Road between Pipiriki and Wanganui has changed for the better. 20 years ago it was a stony track but now it is surfaced. Otherwise it is as quiet and stunningly beautiful as before. The camping spot beside the road I used on my last visit, is still there. Bear in mind, if travelling north, from Pipiriki to Raetihi, is a seriously long, steep climb.

The Wanganui River

Kiwis are as open and friendly can be. But there aren't many of them in a fair size country. So expect some lonely riding though you can expect a few words of greeting from any cyclist you do come across.

Links

http://www.nzcycletrail.com

http://www.cycletour.org.nz

Plenty of New Zealand's unique woodland on the North Island