European Randonneur: Autumn sun in Austria

Along the Gail valley

The weather thick, cold, wet. Visibility next to nothing. Optimistic in the extreme. Offload from a 10 minute train journey through the mountain from the north to the south side of the Alps and the sky is blue, the sun warming.

Southern Austria, in particular Kärnten (Carinthia) is warm. The rivers flow parallel to the Italian border. The border is a jagged range of rocky mountains, the Gailtaler Alpen. The rivers Gail and Drau flow east and into Slovenia. Each has its own long distance bike trail.

The Drau from Sillian to Lienz - 25km downhill

Ride west, in summer, up the gradual Drau incline from Lienz to the Italian border at Sillian, and you risk being swept into the river by hordes of families and groups speeding effortlessly down the 25km descent, winding through the woods. They take the train back to the start.

Stunning views of the Lienz Dolomites

Even in Autumn the downhill direction is popular but the few plodding up the hill do so in reasonable safety. This is a lovely ride. Great, towering peaks on the right, the river Drau, gurgling and burbling its way downstream on the left.

Just one of the castles along the Drau

After Lienz the Drau route levels out a bit. Fewer autumn riders here. Occasional sleepy villages to the left. Glimpses of castles and peaks to the right.

Past Greifenburg, the trail is really quiet. Cruise through meadows. Farmers are cutting the last of the corn. Through tiny villages where bright yellow flowers are refuse to fade despite the late season. Mountains in every direction though the valley is broadening. Cruise into Sachsenburg with its historic square and on to Möllbrucke. After this the Drau valley becomes a broad plain between the mountains.

Autumn sun along the Drau

Nearby, just to the south, is the Gail bike trail. Sandwiched between the mountains on the left (along the Drau they were on the right), and the Karnische Alpen. A relatively flat, smooth asphalt track follows the river from Kötschach close to the Italian border to Villach. This is about as easy as riding a bike can get. Gently down hill. Lots of lovely views.

The Gail valley is popular for its easy-going riding

There are plenty of possibilities: Uphill along the Drau to Sillian, then up again into the Lesach valley. This is stunning but means riding on a road to Kötschach and onward along the Gail bike trail. At Arnoldstein the route meets the Alpe Adria which takes you to the Adriatic at Grado, or follow the Drau into Slovenia at Maribor.