There's no better way to see the world than on a bike. Join me on my rides around Europe to discover what lies beyond my handlebars

Thursday 20 October 2016

1001 Arabian Frights



Riding round the Zeller See in summer is a dodgy experience. There is every kind of risk along the way. The trail is narrow but skirts the north side of the beautiful lake that has become a bit of a middle east sensation.

Zell am See, surrounded by mountains, lies on a headland jutting into the lake. It has been known for years as a ski resort. In the summer it was popular with an older clientele, keen on walks, and strolling along the lakeside. An inspired publicity campaign has transformed the summer months into a paradise for middle eastern visitors. It fulfils their idea of heaven: clear water reflecting the surrounding mountains, streams trickling through verdant meadows. Just the sort of place you'd like to go to when you pop your clogs – or sandals.


For cyclists, this has added a series of new hazards to the lakeside ride. We are used to coping with tottering children on their first roller blades, wandering dogs, wobbly e-bike novices, babies in buggies, photographers looking for just the right angle and racers trying to beat the clock.

Now the Arab dimension has added large numbers of strolling family groups unused to cyclists – or the very idea that bikes should have their exclusive track. Then there are the adventurous guests trying out bikes for the first time and finding them to have something of a will of their own. As for the rent-a-car drivers: gears, clutch, narrow, winding roads, cyclists! A myriad new experiences – and hazards.


All this adds up to 1001 possible frights as we ride around the Zeller See in summer.
 
Ridiing towards the "Stony Sea"
Autumn comes. The visitors leave. The trees surrounding the lake turn to gold. The water is a mirror. The Stony Sea; the distant mountains seem near enough to touch. The bike trail is empty, slick, wet, leaf-strewn.

Along the lanes beyond, the meadows are crowded with cattle cropping the last grass before they move into the stalls. The cowbells tinkle. The sky, clear, deep blue. Snow glistens on the higher peaks, the air is fresh, crisp.

And riding round the Zeller See is fright free.


Zell am See




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