1001 Arabian Frights

Riding round the Zeller See in summer is a dodgy experience. There is every kind of risk along the way. The trail is narrow but skirts the north side of the beautiful lake that has become a bit of a middle east sensation.

Zell am See, surrounded by mountains, lies on a headland jutting into the lake. It has been known for years as a ski resort. In the summer it was popular with an older clientele, keen on walks, and strolling along the lakeside. An inspired publicity campaign has transformed the summer months into a paradise for middle eastern visitors. It fulfils their idea of heaven: clear water reflecting the surrounding mountains, streams trickling through verdant meadows. Just the sort of place you'd like to go to when you pop your clogs – or sandals.

For cyclists, this has added a series of new hazards to the lakeside ride. We are used to coping with tottering children on their first roller blades, wandering dogs, wobbly e-bike novices, babies in buggies, photographers looking for just the right angle and racers trying to beat the clock.

Now the Arab dimension has added large numbers of strolling family groups unused to cyclists – or the very idea that bikes should have their exclusive track. Then there are the adventurous guests trying out bikes for the first time and finding them to have something of a will of their own. As for the rent-a-car drivers: gears, clutch, narrow, winding roads, cyclists! A myriad new experiences – and hazards.

All this adds up to 1001 possible frights as we ride around the Zeller See in summer.

 

Ridiing towards the "Stony Sea"

Autumn comes. The visitors leave. The trees surrounding the lake turn to gold. The water is a mirror. The Stony Sea; the distant mountains seem near enough to touch. The bike trail is empty, slick, wet, leaf-strewn.

Along the lanes beyond, the meadows are crowded with cattle cropping the last grass before they move into the stalls. The cowbells tinkle. The sky, clear, deep blue. Snow glistens on the higher peaks, the air is fresh, crisp.

And riding round the Zeller See is fright free.

Zell am See

Autumn sun in Austria

Along the Gail valley

 The weather thick, cold, wet. Visibility next to nothing. Optimistic in the extreme. Offload from a 10 minute train journey through the mountain from the north to the south side of the Alps and the sky is blue, the sun warming.

Southern Austria, in particular Kärnten (Carinthia) is warm. The rivers flow parallel to the Italian border. The border is a jagged range of rocky mountains, the Gailtaler Alpen. The rivers Gail and Drau flow east and into Slovenia. Each has its own long distance bike trail.

 

The Drau from Sillian to Lienz - 25km downhill

Ride west, in summer, up the gradual Drau incline from Lienz to the Italian border at Sillian, and you risk being swept into the river by hordes of families and groups speeding effortlessly down the 25km descent, winding through the woods. They take the train back to the start.

 

Stunning views of the Lienz Dolomites

Even in Autumn the downhill direction is popular but the few plodding up the hill do so in reasonable safety. This is a lovely ride. Great, towering peaks on the right, the river Drau, gurgling and burbling its way downstream on the left.

 

Just one of the castles along the Drau

After Lienz the Drau route levels out a bit. Fewer autumn riders here. Occasional sleepy villages to the left. Glimpses of castles and peaks to the right.

Past Greifenburg, the trail is really quiet.  Cruise through meadows. Farmers are cutting the last of the corn. Through tiny villages where bright yellow flowers are refuse to fade despite the late season. Mountains in every direction though the valley is broadening. Cruise into Sachsenburg with its historic square and on to Möllbrucke. After this the Drau valley becomes a broad plain between the mountains.

 

Autumn sun along the Drau

Nearby, just to the south, is the Gail bike trail. Sandwiched between the mountains on the left  (along the Drau they were on the right), and the Karnische Alpen. A relatively flat, smooth asphalt track follows the river from Kötschach close to the Italian border to Villach.  This is about as easy as riding a bike can get. Gently down hill. Lots of lovely views. 

 

The Gail valley is popular for its easy-going riding

There are  plenty of possibilities: Uphill along the Drau to Sillian, then up again into the Lesach valley. This is stunning but means riding on a road to Kötschach and onward along the Gail bike trail. At Arnoldstein the route meets the Alpe Adria which takes you to the Adriatic at Grado, or follow the Drau into Slovenia at Maribor.

 

Gailtal

 The warm, Kärnten sun. Blue skies. Quiet trails. Warm welcomes. Every day, something new.

What are you waiting for?

On the trail towards Sachsenburg

The Drau from Greifenburg