Long shadows as we set off. It's 8.30am. We are
a long way west of home. And further south. The Pyrenees. Mountains with
a difference. Different to the Austrian Alps back home.
The cycling culture is different too. More
respect from car and truck drivers. More respect from just about everyone.
Local authorities included. Climbing cyclists even get special road
signs.
There's no other way to get here but driving
1500km across Italy and France. The bikes bouncing on the rear towhook in all
weathers.
Day one after the long drive. Out through Foix
at 370m and on to the D17 direction Col de Marrous. At first it is busy but
soon just the occasional car passes us.
The col is not one of the big famous ones. But
even so, we come to a big sign indicating the average and maximum steepness,
the length of the climb and the altitude to be gained. For this and the col
beyond. Col de Peguére.
Pyrenean climbs are long and steady. Do-able.
Even at our age. We climb almost 30km. Maximum steepness is 8%. The last few
kilometers are 3% or less. At every kilometer, a sign tells the altitude and
the steepness of the next sector.
Barrets: A bronzed old guy standing in his
doorway offers an approving Bonjour. Then another as we pass through the
village. Local cyclists with knotty, leathery calves nod greeting as they fly
past down the hill. Anyone on a bike of any sort, tackling the cols, deserves
respect.
Col de Marrous, just under 1000m. Then the road
winds onward and upward through mixed woodland. Bright sun then deep shade.
Great views of wooded mountains and out to the flatter land to the east.
Its a good day for Col collectors (col-lectors?)
as we pass the sign announcing Col des Jouels at 1247m. Only two more
kilometers to Col de Peguére at 1375m. At the top is a stunning panorama
directly ahead. Mountains up to and above 3000m.
The road drops away. Descent at 18%. Glad we
didn't come up that way, we turn and cruise down back to Foix and coffee.
Coffee
Foix. Cafe Gros: Double espresso in the town
centre €2.50 each. Small bottle of water €3. They've got the balance about
right.
You said it!
The world lies right beyond the handlebars of
any bicycle – Daniel Behrman, The Man Who Loved Bicycles
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