For many, the
ultimate pilgrimage is the long hike across Spain to Santiago or a journey to
Saudi Arabia for the Hajj. For cyclists it is the Mont Ventoux. On any
reasonable summer’s day they come in thousands. All shapes and sizes. Young and
old. Fit and unfit but optimistic. And on all types of bicycle.
Mont Ventoux,
1912m high, is a huge hummock rising from the hills of Provence like a great
whale surfacing through a sea of vineyards. So huge you can see it clearly from
70km away. So huge it more than fills your car windscreen from 10km distance.
The top is bare white stone. At the summit a tall tower.
This is the
cyclists’ Mecca, made famous by the Tour de France. By the death during the 1967
Tour of Tommy Simpson as he chased the lead in 400C plus heat. Its
magnetic powers draw more riders from year to year.
We rode up first
in 2008 – had no real idea of what to expect. The crunch comes in the final
6km. The bare white rock dazzles. The incline steepens. The top comes closer slowly,
reluctantly.
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| First glimpse of the top - it doesn't look far but it is! |
This year we were
prepared. We took the longer and easier route from Sault. New smooth surface.
Winding up first through lavender fields. Then through scrubby woods. Steady, moderate
climbing.
The woods peter
out. The junction with the steeper road from Bedouin marks the start of serious
business. 6km to go at 7-8% The trickle of pilgrims thickens to a stream.
Slowly churning pedals. Puffing. Panting. Greetings as the unchallenged flit
past. ”Bonjour”. “Bravo”. “Bon courage”. “Allez allez”,
 |
| Through a barren rocky landscape a steady stream of riders grind up the final 6km |
Professional photographers
snap great images and thrust their cards into a pocket. The road grinds on. A
procession of cyclists. Some pushing. Some struggling. Some spinning impossibly
low gears. And some smoothly gaining altitude. They probably do it daily.
Suddenly, the
café is on the left. The road sprials right in a cruel, steep turn into the
finish. A confusion of cars, motorcyclists and tired, exultant cyclists.
Photos. Selfies. Then the descent.
 |
| Everyone wants their picture taken at this spot |
The road back to
Sault from the junction is pure joy. All downhill. Smooth, swooping bends. If
you want to reach your mecca, take it easy, ride from Sault.
Distance from
Sault 26km. Vertical ascent 1150m
Top place to
stay:
Auberge du Vin: a
B&B par excellence. Breakfast in the courtyard with a view of Mont Ventoux
rising above the vines which surround this ancient house. In the evening, relax
with a glass of wine, look up at the mountain and think: “We did it!”
http://www.aubergeduvin.com
 |
| The view across the vineyards from the Auberge du Vin |
Best Barrista:
Chris at Auberge
du Vin will make you a coffee to blow your socks off. Ask for the double shot.
Cinglé
If you are really
keen check out http://www.clubcinglesventoux.org/en/rules.html
This is for those
who ride all three routes to the top in one day climbing 4400m or even doing it
all twice in a day – 8800m total ascent.
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