Tauern Radweg - minimise the load

The Tauern Radweg is my home stretch. We regularly ride the route between Krimml and Salzburg in one direction or another – usually in shorter stretches rather than the whole thing. This is the best section of the long-distance bike route – dramatic mountain scenery, varied terrain, not too many ups and downs – it’s not surprising that each summer hundreds of cyclists follow the trail.

Early view among the dramatic scenery between Taxenbach and Schwarzach

The Tauern Bike Route begins at the huge and impressive Krimml waterfall which flings spray over all who come near. Its smooth and undemanding until it reaches Taxenbach when the Salzach valley narrows, and the route climbs steeply to follow a tiny road which itself rocks and rolls high above the river and highway as it passes through a gorge. The bike path offers great views of the Hochkönig mountain as compensation for the climb.

 

Views of the Hochkönig make the climb worthwhile

Back in the valley the route rejoins the River Salzach as it winds around the romantic castle at Werfen then dives, along with the bike route into the deep and narrow gorge at the Pass Lueg. If you are lucky, the strong winds that funnel through the gorge are at your back.

 

The romantic Castle at Werfen sandwiched between huge mountains

Leaving the gorge it is as if you are taking off a restrictive coat. The weather is warmer, the horizon at each side more distant, the narrow valley gives way to wide open farmland – with just a few modest hills to make it more fun.

After Hallein you have a choice of a bike path on the left or right side of the river – both are gravel trails but the best is on the right, newly packed and as you reach Salzburg there is a wonderful view of the castle.

Salzburg is a bike friendly city and the cycle track runs beside the river and under the bridges so before you know it, and without having to put a foot down, you are already leaving town. However, that would be a shame – there’s plenty to see and a chance for a good cup of coffee at least.

 

Great views of the Salzburg castle from the bike path as it enters the city

Once beyond Salzburg, things change: the route follows the river Salzach until it joins the Inn, the trail is gravel strewn, pretty flat and unexciting. The highlights are the towns like Obernberg and Schärding and the chance of seeing rare bird life – at a distance.

At Passau a flight of steps and a narrow dirt track is the ignominious entré to Austria’s most popular cycle trail along the Danube: keep pedalling onward for Vienna, Budapest and the Black Sea.

Along the whole route, there are plenty of places to eat drink and sleep. So why are so many people anxious to see just how much gear they can carry on a bike? Many of the thousands of cyclists passing through each year appear to have brought pretty much all they own, if not the kitchen sink. Campers, of course, probably need the kitchen sink, or at least a roof over their heads and something soft to rest tired bodies on. But the theory should be the same: minimise the load and maximise the fun.

 

Great coffee: Salzburg: 220 Grad,    

                        Primadonna, Platzl

                        Passau: KaffeeWerk

You said it!

Just as the ideal of classic Greek culture was the most perfect harmony of mind and body, so a human and a bicycle are the perfect synthesis of body and machine. 

Richard Ballantine

 

Profile of the route to Salzburg beginning with the sharp descent from Embach to Lend