There's no better way to see the world than on a bike. Join me on my rides around Europe to discover what lies beyond my handlebars

Sunday 28 July 2019

Czech this out for a great ride


The Elbe (Labe in Czech) from Mêlnik
 Are there good reasons for a bike ride across the Czech Republic? Yes, definitely. For a start, excellent beer is a third of the price in neighbouring countries and overall the cost of accommodation and eating out is also less.

But that isn’t a good enough reason. If you are of a mind to explore the less-well-cycled areas of Europe, Czechia (it’s formal name) is a great choice. There are a host of bike routes that are very well signposted. These include four Eurovelo routes: 4, 7, 9 and 13. These follow quiet roads and are merely part of a huge network criss-crossing the whole continent.
 
Signposting for cyclists is very good
(Beware! Once you begin to follow a Eurovelo Route and see signs for a city you have always wanted to visit, but which is 3000km away, the temptation is to scrap all your plans, just follow the signs and keep going.)

The roads in the Czech Republic aren’t bad. Some are very good and some are rather patchy. However just about every town lies in a sea of cobbles and arrivals and departures are usually a bumpy affair.
 
Town centres like this in Litomêríce are usually a sea of cobbles
The Elbe Bike Route along the river which rises close to the Polish border, passes north of Prague and continues right across Germany to Hamburg, has some lovely smooth surfaces and some pretty awful, rough, irregular stone sections. The whole river ride is some 1400km.
 
The Elbe bike trail is, in some, places uncomfortable riding
Although the minor roads are generally pretty good and the signposting is excellent, cycle touring doesn’t seem to be very popular. Once east of Prague, you are a bit of a rarity. 

That does not mean that some of a bike tourist’s special needs are not well catered for. Hotels and guest houses have secure, safe and dry accommodation for valuable bicycles. They are also happy to accept reservations made the night before by telephone - without the need for giving credit card details. Most of the time, English is the best option for non-Czech speakers.
 
Quiet roads, beautiful woodland, rural scenery and small villages make it an attractive destination
If it is a culture you are looking for as well as a day in the saddle, there are some lovely old towns which may not be quite as glossy as those along the Elbe in Germany, but which have their own charm or points of interest. Kutná Hora and Terezín are both worth a day’s stop in themselves. Brno and Breclav are less well-known cities worth a look.
 
The old town of Kutná Hora has a beautiful cathedral 
Prague, of course, is a destination in itself and one worth avoiding if you don’t want to get caught up in a host of hen parties, having to fight your way through the crowds on the Carlsbrücke and having to pay through the nose for just about everything. 
 
Cobbles welcome you to every town
The Czech Republic is a country that the ubiquitous Bikeline books have not yet comprehensively covered with long distance tour ideas, maps and books. This means you can be out on your own, forging your own route, not one of a crowd, and feeling a bit like a pioneer. It’s a good feeling and Czechia is a good, safe place to experience it.

A way into the Czech Republic is along the Elbe from Germany, from, for example, Dresden. (The former East Germany is a good introduction to cobbles.) The river cycle trail runs direct through Bad Schandau to Dêcín across the border. From the other direction, there are Greenway routes from Vienna which lead direct to Prague. 

 
Leaving for Austria from Breclav you come across the "platten" paving of the Iron Curtain era  
Tips and Links

Biking across Czechia – our story: https://spark.adobe.com/page/CNEd5IQcdh4pv/

For detailed bike routes, planning and directions download the free app: mapy.cz 

For the Elbe bike route, there is a free guide available from tourist offices or on line


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