There's no better way to see the world than on a bike. Join me on my rides around Europe to discover what lies beyond my handlebars

Sunday 29 October 2017

Chasing views - not the clock



The Salzatal reservoir on the Grimming ride
The blog before this mentioned bike rides to achieve goals; chasing for better times, longer distances and so on. Not all rides are like this. Not even the best rides are like this. There are some bike excursions which are purely to enjoy the fresh air, amazing views and for the great feeling produced by exercise in beautiful surroundings.

Autumn is a marvellous time in Austria’s Alps. Crisp mornings, warm days, crystal clear skies and wonderful colours. As the colder air marches down from the peaks, so the larches in turn change from lighter green to gold in a cascade of colour.

Fabulous autumn colours along the "forbidden" trail through the Salzatal
Two recent rides inspired this blog. One of the routes I wrote about in a blog a couple of years ago. Looking back, it is still one of the best autumn circuits – circling the base of the huge monolithic Grimming mountain. Cruising through neat and tidy open meadows, puffing up a steep trail through golden woods, and bumping along beside a narrow gorge, autumn colours reflected in the lake.

The second is in the Salzkammergut – Salzburg’s lake district. Here a network of cycle tracks, well-signed bike routes on tiny, quiet lanes can lead safely in and out of towns and villages while affording fabulous and surprising lake views.
 
The Drachenwand
Austrians are a very organised folk and it appears that most people, regardless of the weather, put their bicycles down into the cellar on October 1 and don’t bring them out until May 1. This means that the cycle routes, busy in summer with families, couples, racers and cruisers, are quiet at this time of year.
 
Early morning sun glitters on the Mondsee while cloud drift down through the valleys
The Mondsee glitters in the early sun. The distant mountains are blue and grey. Great blankets of white fog slither from the connecting valleys down to the water.
The Drachenwand rises like a great ragged tooth from a wreath of white cloud.

The day warms on the approach to the Attersee – a long lake lined on the far side by mountains. The water turquoise, the mountains indigo. The bike trail parallels the lake, but mostly high above the road, ducking and diving and frequently bursting over a ridge to offer up a new vista of lake and mountain.
 
Along the Attersee the bike trail ducks and dives with fabulous views
Finally, at the end of the lake there is just a short hop back to the Mondsee. The bike track skirts the end of the lake and dives into a tunnel – solely for cyclists. It must be nearly one kilometre long, winding back and forth with a few openings for extra lake views.
 
Cycling heaven beside the Attersee
Riding a circuit like this should not be hurried. Stop to admire the views. Ride a bit more. Look back and wonder. You can’t fail to be inspired and thrilled. Yes, it’s the social and scenic rides that are far more memorable than those chasing the clock.

The route returns to the Mondsee with the Drachenwand in the distance



Distance 57km
Ascent 475


The Attersee, clear and blue as in the tropics - but just a little colder








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