Enns Radweg: never again, and again, and again

Through the Gesäuse gorge - avoiding the tunnels on the old road

Every time we ride the river Enns long distance bike route we say, "never again". Or: "that's the last time we do that."

It's not because it isn't beautiful - it certainly is. More than that, it is dramatically stunning, with near vertical mountains soaring straight up from the gurgling river. Later, a more mature Enns opens out into manicured steep meadows and woodland before reaching the historic city of Steyr. This is Austria at it's best.

 

Soaring mountains rise straight up from the gorge

So why never again? There are no monstrously long ascents along the way, no killer climbs. The road surfaces are good. But riding this terrain is like death by a thousand cuts.

From Admont to Steyr, 120km, the route is almost never flat. After every joyous swoop down to the river, there is a steep grind back to the original altitude. It just never lets up. As the day wears on and the strength wears out, you find yourself hunting for lower gears which just aren't there. Almost as soon as each climb is complete, back down you go again.

 

Death by a thousand cuts, - the route for 70km from Altenmarkt to Steyr is never flat

There is also a long stretch, from Admont to Weyer that is along the main road. This is also a continuous series of ups and downs. Austria’s rule barring heavy trucks on Sundays makes this the best day of the week to ride through the Gesäuse gorge. The gorge is so narrow, there just isn't enough room for a separate bike lane. Only when the road dives into a tunnel are bikes diverted on to the old road. Further along, there is often enough space beside the main road, but sadly there is no separated track for cycles.

 

Swooping down to the river - just around the corner the climb begins again

The castle at Lösenstein

Maybe there isn’t the demand. At the height of the summer there were very few cycle tourists to be seen. Compare that with the thousands pedalling along the Danube or Tauern bike routes. The message has got around - to enjoy this scenery you are going to have to work for it.

The Main Street in the  city of Steyr

The reward is Steyr, one of the best preserved old towns in Austria. Steyr is a jewel. The main street is lined by historic building each different from the last, beautifully decorated and maintained. Away from the centre there are cobbled lanes and tiny alleys. The city sits at the junction of the rivers Steyr and Enns overlooked by ancient churches and a castle.

Will we ride this stretch of the Enns again? Doubtful. Knowing what lies ahead is offputting. But who knows?

Where the Enns is joined by the river Steyr