Tauern Radweg: Surprise! Surprise!

Burghausen - the world's longest castle

A weekend bike tour along the Tauern Bike Trail into Upper Austria and over the border into Bavaria. Familiar territory, but there are always surprises.

Surprise #1: The forecasters got it right!  Grey-out in the morning. Surrounded by cloud. No view at all. Damp and cold – this is May for goodness sake! The forecast is for afternoon sunny periods. We take a chance and mount up and start the first mini-tour of the year at lunchtime. The damp chill receded. The sun appeared.

 

Along the Salzach banks -mucky, but flat

Surprise #2: The mountains’ last gasp! Riding down the Salzach from Salzburg along the river bank is generally easy going (though mucky from the recent rains). Riders on the popular route source to Passau, relax, thinking they have left the mountains behind. At Titmoning, heading inland, the Tauern Radweg suddenly rears up and winds its way up a serious incline to a plateau at St Radegund.

 

On the climb to Sankt Radegund

Surprise #3: In parts of Austria it is still possible to spend less than €50 for dinner, b&b.  The day was cooling – at the top of the climb,  a gasthof had a room free. It’s big airy and bright with windows on two sides, a balcony and bathroom with a window. €36 per person with breakfast. Only one kind of sausage or another on the meaty menu. Not even a Weiner Schnitzel! The beer was good and the wine ok though.

 

Misty dawn at Sankt Radegund

Surprise #4: Bird life. Where the rivers Inn and Salzach meet, it is flat. Pools and reeds and plenty of water. Brilliant for bird watching. The gritty trail follows the river banks through the bird sanctuaries. Stop at the hides for a nature check. Sometimes there are thousands of water fowl to be seen. Last Saturday, just two ducks and a pair of swans with cygnets. There’s more to see in the local park.

 

Exotic wildlife(?) in the sanctuary along the Inn

Surprise #5: Great Thai food in a rural backwater. After a day riding along the Salzach and Inn rivers, then turning back towards home along the Mattig valley, Mauerkirchen was a convenient place to call it a day. In the Gasthof Ginzinger beer garden, excellent Thai food; spring rolls and crispy duck all freshly cooked. Perfect after a great day’s riding.

 

Near Burghausen - it could be Germany or Austria

The Tauern Radweg begins in Krimml and follows the Salzach valley from its source to Salzburg and beyond. Great scenery, good riding.

Coffee: in a café in Braunau - nothing worth reporting. Cycling quality here is high but a good espresso is hard to find