The other
morning in the first hour or so of cycling along Austria's Upper Innradweg, we
saw more people riding bikes than in 10 days along the Swiss Lakes Route.
http://europeanrandonneur.blogspot.co.at/2016/08/swiss-roll-heidi-land-challenge.html
http://europeanrandonneur.blogspot.co.at/2016/08/swiss-roll-heidi-land-challenge.html
Okay, so
there are various reasons for the difference in numbers, but what was also
striking was the grim looks, lack of a smile, a greeting or a raised hand.
Coming towards us were just a load of grumpy young men. And some equally grumpy
women.
This was August
and at that time of year the long-distance routes are increasingly popular.
When driving a car on a busy highway, one doesn't expect a wave from oncoming
traffic. But sharing a narrow trail, cruising through wildly romantic scenery,
enjoying exercise, fresh air and sunshine should be a pleasure. You wouldn't
think so. What a grim lot! Hardly a flicker of a smile.
Most give
no indication of recognising a fellow traveller at all. Some even look away.
It's as if they are so fixated on the number of kilometers and average speed,
there's no time for superfluous actions like smiling. Let alone looking at the
scenery.
It wasn't
always so. When long-distance cycle touring was an activity enjoyed by just a
few oddballs, greeting fellow spirits was the norm. It was common to stop and
compare notes, but there's no opportunity for that these days.
The long
distance routes, like the river Inn, are well signposted. Each has its own
guidebook. So surprises are rare and there is little reason to get lost.
Organised groups with a series of fixed accommodation arrangements often travel
in large numbers and are concentrating on the bike in front. And obeying the
orders of the leader: "single file, bikes coming towards us" (how
dare they?)
The
grumpy young men phenomena might be nationality dictated. German and Dutch
riders are notoriously unfriendly. The French are great greeters. Or it could
be that newcomers on the increasingly popular e-bikes are unfamiliar with the
etiquette. Or that the groups of mountain bike riders with back packs don't
deem to acknowledge cycles with panniers or mudguards.
A friendly Omani cyclist in Switzerland |
Mass
cycling seems to stop at Austria's Swiss border. It is definitely more
expensive there. But the Swiss have a comprehensive network of local, regional
and national bike routes. All are well marked with clear numbers on the maroon
signs.
Switzerland has few visitors with panniers on their bikes and these
rare birds greet each other as like-minded spirits. We recently met and talked
with two guys exploring the Rhone Bike Route on fixed wheel classic bikes, and
a guy from Oman who was just discovering the pleasures of cycling. Cycle Swiss,
it's still friendly. Just as it was in Austria way back when.
Friendly-fixed wheel riders in Switzerland |