There's no better way to see the world than on a bike. Join me on my rides around Europe to discover what lies beyond my handlebars

Monday, 5 September 2016

Grumpy young men




The other morning in the first hour or so of cycling along Austria's Upper Innradweg, we saw more people riding bikes than in 10 days along the Swiss Lakes Route.
http://europeanrandonneur.blogspot.co.at/2016/08/swiss-roll-heidi-land-challenge.html

Okay, so there are various reasons for the difference in numbers, but what was also striking was the grim looks, lack of a smile, a greeting or a raised hand. Coming towards us were just a load of grumpy young men. And some equally grumpy women.
 
The wild, romantic, upper Inn valley
This was August and at that time of year the long-distance routes are increasingly popular. When driving a car on a busy highway, one doesn't expect a wave from oncoming traffic. But sharing a narrow trail, cruising through wildly romantic scenery, enjoying exercise, fresh air and sunshine should be a pleasure. You wouldn't think so. What a grim lot! Hardly a flicker of a smile.

Most give no indication of recognising a fellow traveller at all. Some even look away. It's as if they are so fixated on the number of kilometers and average speed, there's no time for superfluous actions like smiling. Let alone looking at the scenery.



It wasn't always so. When long-distance cycle touring was an activity enjoyed by just a few oddballs, greeting fellow spirits was the norm. It was common to stop and compare notes, but there's no opportunity for that these days.

The long distance routes, like the river Inn, are well signposted. Each has its own guidebook. So surprises are rare and there is little reason to get lost. Organised groups with a series of fixed accommodation arrangements often travel in large numbers and are concentrating on the bike in front. And obeying the orders of the leader: "single file, bikes coming towards us" (how dare they?)

The grumpy young men phenomena might be nationality dictated. German and Dutch riders are notoriously unfriendly. The French are great greeters. Or it could be that newcomers on the increasingly popular e-bikes are unfamiliar with the etiquette. Or that the groups of mountain bike riders with back packs don't deem to acknowledge cycles with panniers or mudguards.

A friendly Omani cyclist in Switzerland
Mass cycling seems to stop at Austria's Swiss border. It is definitely more expensive there. But the Swiss have a comprehensive network of local, regional and national bike routes. All are well marked with clear numbers on the maroon signs. 


Switzerland has few visitors with panniers on their bikes and these rare birds greet each other as like-minded spirits. We recently met and talked with two guys exploring the Rhone Bike Route on fixed wheel classic bikes, and a guy from Oman who was just discovering the pleasures of cycling. Cycle Swiss, it's still friendly. Just as it was in Austria way back when.
Friendly-fixed wheel riders in Switzerland