Czech this out for a great ride

The Elbe (Labe in Czech) from Mêlnik

 Are there good reasons for a bike ride across the Czech Republic? Yes, definitely. For a start, excellent beer is a third of the price in neighbouring countries and overall the cost of accommodation and eating out is also less.

But that isn’t a good enough reason. If you are of a mind to explore the less-well-cycled areas of Europe, Czechia (it’s formal name) is a great choice. There are a host of bike routes that are very well signposted. These include four Eurovelo routes: 4, 7, 9 and 13. These follow quiet roads and are merely part of a huge network criss-crossing the whole continent.

 

Signposting for cyclists is very good

(Beware! Once you begin to follow a Eurovelo Route and see signs for a city you have always wanted to visit, but which is 3000km away, the temptation is to scrap all your plans, just follow the signs and keep going.)

The roads in the Czech Republic aren’t bad. Some are very good and some are rather patchy. However just about every town lies in a sea of cobbles and arrivals and departures are usually a bumpy affair.

 

Town centres like this in Litomêríce are usually a sea of cobbles

The Elbe Bike Route along the river which rises close to the Polish border, passes north of Prague and continues right across Germany to Hamburg, has some lovely smooth surfaces and some pretty awful, rough, irregular stone sections. The whole river ride is some 1400km.

 

The Elbe bike trail is, in some, places uncomfortable riding

Although the minor roads are generally pretty good and the signposting is excellent, cycle touring doesn’t seem to be very popular. Once east of Prague, you are a bit of a rarity. 

That does not mean that some of a bike tourist’s special needs are not well catered for. Hotels and guest houses have secure, safe and dry accommodation for valuable bicycles. They are also happy to accept reservations made the night before by telephone - without the need for giving credit card details. Most of the time, English is the best option for non-Czech speakers.

 

Quiet roads, beautiful woodland, rural scenery and small villages make it an attractive destination

If it is a culture you are looking for as well as a day in the saddle, there are some lovely old towns which may not be quite as glossy as those along the Elbe in Germany, but which have their own charm or points of interest. Kutná Hora and Terezín are both worth a day’s stop in themselves. Brno and Breclav are less well-known cities worth a look.

 

The old town of Kutná Hora has a beautiful cathedral 

Prague, of course, is a destination in itself and one worth avoiding if you don’t want to get caught up in a host of hen parties, having to fight your way through the crowds on the Carlsbrücke and having to pay through the nose for just about everything. 

 

Cobbles welcome you to every town

The Czech Republic is a country that the ubiquitous Bikeline books have not yet comprehensively covered with long distance tour ideas, maps and books. This means you can be out on your own, forging your own route, not one of a crowd, and feeling a bit like a pioneer. It’s a good feeling and Czechia is a good, safe place to experience it.

A way into the Czech Republic is along the Elbe from Germany, from, for example, Dresden. (The former East Germany is a good introduction to cobbles.) The river cycle trail runs direct through Bad Schandau to Dêcín across the border. From the other direction, there are Greenway routes from Vienna which lead direct to Prague. 

 

Leaving for Austria from Breclav you come across the "platten" paving of the Iron Curtain era  

Tips and Links

Biking across Czechia – our story: https://spark.adobe.com/page/CNEd5IQcdh4pv/

For detailed bike routes, planning and directions download the free app: mapy.cz 

For the Elbe bike route, there is a free guide available from tourist offices or on line

https://www.elberadweg.de

Danube Deviations - head for the hills

Heading for the hills, on the Ötscherland bike trail

 The Danube bike trail from Passau to Vienna is hugely popular. In the summer the bikes go by in flocks. Bikes of every type. Riders of every age. It is a wonder to see. Cycling as easy as it can be.

But it can be a bit tedious. It’s a big river and there are only so many gigantic cruise ships to gawp at. It’s a wide valley and the hills are sometimes rather distant. And where there are attractions, like the abbey at Melk, the cruise ships are double parked and the trail is clogged with their passengers. 

 

Cruise ships double parked beside the bike trail at Melk 

It is great to see so many people enjoying their bikes. But the gaggles of cycling groups, all with matching bikes and day bags, out on their first bike tour experience, are so concentrated on following the wheel ahead, it is best to give them a wide berth.

 The Danube bike trail can at times become a bit tedious - it isn't often as empty as this

So if all this is spoiling your fun, leave the Danube and head for the hills. On the south side of the river, in the province of Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) there are a number of great bike routes which follow rivers flowing down to the Danube. And you don’t have to ride up to enjoy the ride down. 

From Sankt Pölten the Mariazellerbahn, will take you and your bike to the pilgrim centre, Mariazell. The two-and-a-half hour journey itself is worth taking and the town with its lovely basilica, has a special atmosphere. Leaving on the Traisental Radweg is a true treat. Almost entirely on tiny roads or bike-only asphalt trails, it swirls down a serpentine road, and then climbs before it launches you into a wonderful descent back to the start. It is so well signposted you can’t get lost. It is about 88km to St Pölten, but continues another 20km to Traismauer on the Danube.

 

Along the Traisental bike route

Not had enough? Ride across country on the Pielachtal bike trail to Melk and a short way up the Danube. At Pöchlarn is the start of the Ötscherland bike route. This climbs 656m over a stretch of 62km. The first part rises gently but after Gaming a steady but do-able climb brings you to Pfaffenschlag from where there is a beautiful run down to the lake at Lunz.

 

The river Ybbs has beautiful green waters

From here, the trail along the river Ybbs through to the old town of Waidhofen is as good a route as you can find anywhere. Steadily descending, it is a broad, smooth asphalt trail running through pretty villages and along the turquoise green of the river. After Waidhofen it isn’t quite so idyllic, but it is easy to follow to Amstetten and the town of Ybbs on the Danube.

 

Göstling on the Ybbs Bike trail

The scenery is farmland and woodland, lovely but not extreme in any way. It certainly is a lot quieter than along the Danube and you will have had an opportunity to stretch your legs a bit on the uphill stretches and cruise down the descents.

Niederösterreich is justifiably proud of these trails, and the many more that link to and from them. They have a good range of detailed maps available for free in the tourist offices. The building of the province’s cycle network has been financially supported by the EU.

Provence - in the Giant's shadow

Méthamis - one of many hilltop villages

How would you like all your holiday rides dominated by a giant? A giant so big it looms above you everywhere you go. A giant that threatens, that beckons and that promises pain if you take up its challenge. A giant that entices, tempts and seduces.

This giant is the Géant de Provence. The mountain on every cycle famatic's bucket list. Almost 2000m high it dominates the landscape. Visible from 70km away. This giant is different to the giant cols and peaks of the Pyrenenees. It stands alone unchallenged.

However there is more to cycling in the Vaucluse area of Provence than belting up the Mont Ventoux seeing only your time and heart rate. 

 

Hills may be long but are steady and do-able

The air is heavy. The sun, hot. The Mediterranean light shimmers.  Colours are sharper apgainst the blue sky. Villages of honey–coloured stone, never more than a few kilometers apart are linked by a confusing web of country lanes. Some stand aloft rocky prominences. Others squeeze the traffic to a crawl through narrow streets. Each is different. Each has the same charm. 

 

Lavender fields on the Sault plateau - a heady scent at harvest time

The roads swelter in the summer sun. Dusty hedgerows of wild herbs giving off a heady scent. Vineyards on either side with tempting signs offering wine tasting. On the Sault plateau the lavender bushes are aligned in the rocky soil with military precision. Approaching harvest time the air is heavy with the scent and the vistas blue. Olive groves and cherry orchards. The countryside is bursting with goodness

Honey-coloured stone villages are never far apart

The tourism department produces a fine set of suggested circuits ranging from an easy 25km to a challenging 120km. Route profiles and services along the way are detailed along with a map. The markers along the routes are sometimes hard to find but are hardly needed.

 

On the D5, a steady climb with the bonus of a ride back through the Gorges de la Nesque

One of the highlights of the area is the Gorges de la Nesque, 20km of twisting cliff-edge riding with huge views. Recommended is the D5 road from Méthamis a steady climb through an landscape empty of habitation. A beautiful road with views across to the gorge. The hills, like this one, can go on a bit. But they are generally do–able. The road signs clear and markers indicate distances and altitude.,

 

Flassan - nestling at the foot of the Géant

People on bikes are everywhere in this area. Most motorists are considerate (if sometimes frustrated). In Vaucluse the bike rules the road. Best of all is the friendliness of the french cyclists. Though some tourists fail to acknowledge other riders, the french, on minimalist racers, have a word of greeting or encouragement for others enjoying the pleasure of riding in Provence. 

The Géant awakes

So though the Géant de Provence may dominate your visit, a ride up to it’s bald summit is not essential but may become irresistible. If so, success will be a highlight of your visit to this cyclist heaven. 

 

The bald summit is always in sight

Somewhere to stay:  Auberge du Vin, a b&b surrounded on four sides by vineyards, down a dusty road. An old stone house on the north side of a walled courtyard. A great tree provides shade, a wisteria cools the large, stone communal table. A pool amid ancient stone walls. Shade beneath a fig tree. Easy–going, helpful and obliging hosts. French breakfasts with excellent coffee. Quiet. And continuously changing views of the Géant across the vineyards. 

www.aubergeduvin.com/

Auberge du Vin, surrounded by vineyards with great views of the Mont Ventoux

Flat out in the Camargue

85km and not a gear change needed

What better antidote to climbing the Pyrenean giant cols that a day's ride in the Camargue? After all that grunting and grinding, after the crawling upward towards the heavens, after the pain of getting down the stairs for breakfast the next day, a spin through the Camargue will put you right in no time.

Carmarge? Camargue? What's that? Well, it’s some way eastward across southern France to where the Rhône flows into the Med. Basically, it’s flat. Totally and utterly flat. That doesn’t mean it’s not interesting. There’s bulls and birds and white horses plus the opportunity to learn a bit about salt.

The Camargue is a huge salt plain. Or is it huge areas of shallow salty water held in the arms of sandy, salty spits? Here there are mighty views, massive blue skies, salt flats and weird plant life. 

 

Flamingos are just knee deep in the huge étangs

Flamingos stand up to their knees in the „étaings“ which, though huge are just 2m deep. They are home to millions of birds who come and go though the seasons. The bulls are black and bred for fighting in the ring — but also make good steaks. The white horses are everywhere, are a Camargue icon, but don’t seem to serve much purpose.

 

Mighty views and big skies

Some of the roads, which look almost non-existent on the map, are long and straight and horribly bumpy. The old surface is worn to shreds and there are plenty of holes big enough to swallow your front wheel. But they are not all too bad. There are also sand tracks and gravel roads.

 

Why does the sea water turn pink as it evaporates?

The good news is that riding the Camargue, you can easily boost your annual distance score. On the downside you won’t do anything for your altitude–climbed total. A day's cruising here is a pleasure but you should check all the bolts and nuts on your bike afterwards.

 

Weird plants and lots of salty sand - and no hills

A place to stay: if you are nostalgic for the ‘60s, try Les Cabanettes near St Gilles (see below). It's an architectural classic and doesn’t seem to have been altered since it first opened in the 1960s. Very dated and the restaurant no longer operates. But it is an experience.

Original poster

Pyrenees: where the weather wins

Sunshine all the way: Languedoc, Camargue, Provence, Cevennes, the Pyrenees. Southern France is good for cycling. Hot, sunny weather. Choose where you want to ride and...go for it.

But it doesn’t always quite work out like that. After a few days riding in the Eastern Pyrenees around the town of Foix, a big col is planned in the high mountains. Bagneres de Bigorre is sandwiched between two cols, the d'Espin and  it’s more famous brother, the Tourmalet. All roads from Bagneres go in the same direction: upwards. Everyone on a bike is intent on the big one, the long haul to 2000m. 

„Done that“ a few years ago, so this year's target was the Col d'Espin at 1480m. But the weather was having none of it. It’s all very well struggling up a mountain for the psychological high. But if you can't see when or if you have reached the top because a cloud is sitting on it, all the effort is wasted. And riding down 1200 vertical meters in the rain is neither wise nor fun. Sometimes the weather has to win and common sense prevail.

 

Topping out on the Col des Polomières

But all is not lost. An afternoon outing to the little Col des Polomières at 810m proved to be more than a walk in the park. And riding on through Lies to make a circuit, where the descent is too steep to let it rip, makes this a challenging but short circuit.

 

In the Gorges de Ribaou

Around Foix there are plenty of more modest passes to climb even when it is overcast. From Saint Girons lovely rides along through the Gorges de Ribaou to the Salat, Garbet and Ustou valleys culminating in a climb to the Col de Latrape at 1111m.

There's plenty of good riding to be enjoyed along the length of the Pyrenees. But this is mountain country and here the weather changes fast. And here the weather wins.

Languedoc: roads like gizzards

It’s raining in the Pyrenees. We’re driving across France looking for some cycling action. The forecast for the classic cols doesn’t look good. So how to find new cycling territory? Squiggly roads is the answer.

The Route du Soleil towards Barcelona traverses much of the south of France. Just to the north is Haut Languedoc and a glance at a good map reveals lots of squiggly roads. Twists and turns as tight as gizzards indicate hills if not mountains. There are plenty of tiny white lanes as well as the secondary roads marked yellow. Many roads feature a green line at the side — scenic routes.

 

The start of the big squiggly descent

Putting this „squiggly“ criterion to the test:

The D609 from Saint Pons de Thomieres is a squiggly. It climbs some 600m over 10km. A steady, winding ride on a good surface. At the Col de Cabaretou turn right on the D169 the Route du Lacs. This is a pleasant enough road though since the logging, it hardly deserves the green stripe.

Suddenly it plunges into the Agout valley, writhing and twisting down to the stream. Take a right towards Olargues and the road climbs steadily in gentle curves. From the Col de Fontfroide there are 12km of curly convolutions on the map..

This is the real squiggly test. A 12km, 800m descent. Some spectacular views, long drops and brilliant riding. Not too steep but fast and fun. 

The road back to Saint Pons is smooth and easy. The circuit a total of 55km and 1,100 altitude metres. 

 

Olargues at the bottom of the big descent

Looking at the map showed that here in the Languedoc there are some challenging and beautiful rides even if they haven’t the cachet of the Greats in the Pyrenees. All you need is a good map and good legs. 

 

Profile of the circuit - 1100 altitude metres

Map: Michelin Departmental 339, 1:150,000 fits the bill. 

Coffee: Café de France in St Pons: a „Grand Café Noir Double“ hits the spot as long as the waitress survives the sprint across the road from the bar to the tables

Overnight : La Cerisaie in Riols — a comfortable b&b plus table d'hôte 

https://cerisaie.net/

OÖ: far from the madding crowd

Imagine a road, where traffic is rare, where birds sing, trees hang down to give shade and crops are quietly growing as far as the eye can see.

Then think of the news: “monstrous” queues for the Eiffel Tower, hours of waiting to cross the English Channel, traffic in huge jams all across Europe, flights delayed and airports stuffed with frustrated travellers, Spanish life guards on strike and no-one can go in the sea – despite temperatures above 40^oC.

 

Bike routes are clearly signposted

Even at the height of holiday season madness, there are places where riding a bike can be done in peace and solitude.

The R1 route along the Danube from the German border at Passau to Vienna is Austria’s cycle autobahn. About 40,000 make the trip each year – most at the height of summer. Lonely it isn’t.

 

Good roads where traffic is rare

But much of the route is in Upper Austria (Oberösterreich) which has a huge network of bike routes and good maps to guide the rider. The routes are exceptionally well signposted and lead through peaceful, rural countryside. Many of them spring from the Danube so if you are unhappy about dodging the many long, wobbly chains of unaccustomed riders, take a route to the left or right.

 

This is vegetable country

The R17, for example runs for 67km southwards along the Trattnach, an insignificant stream passing the towns of Eferding and Grieskirchen, leading deep into the countryside. The trail follows the valley so there are no significant ups or downs. Mostly it is on small country lanes with next to no traffic.

 

Huge, beautifully-maintained farmhouses dot the landscape

As well as 31 of these mapped and indicated routes, there are a number of linking routes, equally well signposted which take riders from one main route to another. With a good map, there are hundreds more tiny lanes to explore and find cycling peace.

And what is to be seen along the way? Huge and beautifully maintained farm buildings, crops of all sorts - the area around Eferding is famous for its vegetables – small villages with lovely churches, and tiny roadside chapels. What more could you want?

Also in this blog: 

Muhlviertel – rolling round the border August 2015

Enns Radweg . never again, and again August /2017

Maps and information:

www.oberoesterreich.at