Languedoc: roads like gizzards

It’s raining in the Pyrenees. We’re driving across France looking for some cycling action. The forecast for the classic cols doesn’t look good. So how to find new cycling territory? Squiggly roads is the answer.

The Route du Soleil towards Barcelona traverses much of the south of France. Just to the north is Haut Languedoc and a glance at a good map reveals lots of squiggly roads. Twists and turns as tight as gizzards indicate hills if not mountains. There are plenty of tiny white lanes as well as the secondary roads marked yellow. Many roads feature a green line at the side — scenic routes.

 

The start of the big squiggly descent

Putting this „squiggly“ criterion to the test:

The D609 from Saint Pons de Thomieres is a squiggly. It climbs some 600m over 10km. A steady, winding ride on a good surface. At the Col de Cabaretou turn right on the D169 the Route du Lacs. This is a pleasant enough road though since the logging, it hardly deserves the green stripe.

Suddenly it plunges into the Agout valley, writhing and twisting down to the stream. Take a right towards Olargues and the road climbs steadily in gentle curves. From the Col de Fontfroide there are 12km of curly convolutions on the map..

This is the real squiggly test. A 12km, 800m descent. Some spectacular views, long drops and brilliant riding. Not too steep but fast and fun. 

The road back to Saint Pons is smooth and easy. The circuit a total of 55km and 1,100 altitude metres. 

 

Olargues at the bottom of the big descent

Looking at the map showed that here in the Languedoc there are some challenging and beautiful rides even if they haven’t the cachet of the Greats in the Pyrenees. All you need is a good map and good legs. 

 

Profile of the circuit - 1100 altitude metres

Map: Michelin Departmental 339, 1:150,000 fits the bill. 

Coffee: Café de France in St Pons: a „Grand Café Noir Double“ hits the spot as long as the waitress survives the sprint across the road from the bar to the tables

Overnight : La Cerisaie in Riols — a comfortable b&b plus table d'hôte 

https://cerisaie.net/