Istria: still learning after 30 years

After more than 30 years of cycle touring around Europe and beyond, it would be reasonable to imagine we had ironed out all the wrinkles. But our first two day trips over a long weekend in Croatian Istria soon proved us wrong.

We have a stack of well-used Bikeline books of long distance routes. Indeed spotting the Istrian edition in a bookshop prompted the long-weekend trip. So we know how to find our way using these guides.

After the initial long and arduous climb on our first outing from Buzet, we missed the first turning and climbed a lot further than necessary.

Finally, realising our mistake, we rolled back to the intended turning and resumed the route. Before long we were lost and from there things, literally and figuratively, went downhill. We found our way back in the end but found the Bikeline route descriptions lacking in useful guidance - like mentioning the signposts.

Rovinj - lunch on board and ready for the start but unprepared for the rough track

Day two and things started well heading out of Rovinj. But when we came to the indicated “gravel” stretch found it almost impossible for anything but a mountain bike. Our touring bikes were floundering in deep hollows of loose stones the size of Oxo cubes. Again we opted out and found an alternative asphalt route.

Route 502 - if you aren't climbing, then you are on a precipitous descent

Twice bitten, day three was going to go smoothly. Route 502 set by Istriabike, the local tourist organisation, is all asphalt. We also had a profile and know there is over 600m of climbing. And what a lovely ride! Through small vineyards, olive groves, woods and tiny, ancient villages. Well signposted and with a map clearly illustrating distance between junctions and simple rally- style images for each turn - nothing could go wrong. And it didn't. 

Some of the ups and downs of route 502 

The great gate into Buzet

However, getting to the official start at Sovinjak was interesting. Just 8km. 5km along the Mirna valley, turn left and....250 vertical metres at 10% a bit more than we had bargained for. And along route 502, it was non stop climbing and descending, sometimes steeper than 10%. Even going down was slow as it was so steep.

Day 4 and we took our chances with the Bikeline book and managed a modest circular route on good asphalt from Groznjan with only one slip up. 

There's quite a network of surfaced roads in Istria and many of them are very quiet. All you need to find them is a really good map and some suggestions from the local tourist offices who have good information and guides available free, 

Istria has invested a lot of effort in setting up bike routes and making them easily accessible with good printed material. But many of these are unsurfaced tracks and if you are sticking to the asphalt, be ready to ride with traffic on some busy through routes. Either way, there is plenty of good, healthy climbing ahead in beautiful rural surroundings.

D_I_Y bike service facility in Groznjan
including pump, Allen keys etc

Rovinj from across the bay

Coffee: Croatia has excellent coffee if you like it strong. Highly recommended is the cafe at the foot of the hill to the Buzet old town (Stari Grad). A double espresso macchiato will get you up the steep and winding climb, and even over the horrendous cobbles, as you pass through the gate. An it costs just 12 Kuna. (less than €2)