Provence - in the Giant's shadow

Méthamis - one of many hilltop villages

How would you like all your holiday rides dominated by a giant? A giant so big it looms above you everywhere you go. A giant that threatens, that beckons and that promises pain if you take up its challenge. A giant that entices, tempts and seduces.

This giant is the Géant de Provence. The mountain on every cycle famatic's bucket list. Almost 2000m high it dominates the landscape. Visible from 70km away. This giant is different to the giant cols and peaks of the Pyrenenees. It stands alone unchallenged.

However there is more to cycling in the Vaucluse area of Provence than belting up the Mont Ventoux seeing only your time and heart rate. 

 

Hills may be long but are steady and do-able

The air is heavy. The sun, hot. The Mediterranean light shimmers.  Colours are sharper apgainst the blue sky. Villages of honey–coloured stone, never more than a few kilometers apart are linked by a confusing web of country lanes. Some stand aloft rocky prominences. Others squeeze the traffic to a crawl through narrow streets. Each is different. Each has the same charm. 

 

Lavender fields on the Sault plateau - a heady scent at harvest time

The roads swelter in the summer sun. Dusty hedgerows of wild herbs giving off a heady scent. Vineyards on either side with tempting signs offering wine tasting. On the Sault plateau the lavender bushes are aligned in the rocky soil with military precision. Approaching harvest time the air is heavy with the scent and the vistas blue. Olive groves and cherry orchards. The countryside is bursting with goodness

Honey-coloured stone villages are never far apart

The tourism department produces a fine set of suggested circuits ranging from an easy 25km to a challenging 120km. Route profiles and services along the way are detailed along with a map. The markers along the routes are sometimes hard to find but are hardly needed.

 

On the D5, a steady climb with the bonus of a ride back through the Gorges de la Nesque

One of the highlights of the area is the Gorges de la Nesque, 20km of twisting cliff-edge riding with huge views. Recommended is the D5 road from Méthamis a steady climb through an landscape empty of habitation. A beautiful road with views across to the gorge. The hills, like this one, can go on a bit. But they are generally do–able. The road signs clear and markers indicate distances and altitude.,

 

Flassan - nestling at the foot of the Géant

People on bikes are everywhere in this area. Most motorists are considerate (if sometimes frustrated). In Vaucluse the bike rules the road. Best of all is the friendliness of the french cyclists. Though some tourists fail to acknowledge other riders, the french, on minimalist racers, have a word of greeting or encouragement for others enjoying the pleasure of riding in Provence. 

The Géant awakes

So though the Géant de Provence may dominate your visit, a ride up to it’s bald summit is not essential but may become irresistible. If so, success will be a highlight of your visit to this cyclist heaven. 

 

The bald summit is always in sight

Somewhere to stay:  Auberge du Vin, a b&b surrounded on four sides by vineyards, down a dusty road. An old stone house on the north side of a walled courtyard. A great tree provides shade, a wisteria cools the large, stone communal table. A pool amid ancient stone walls. Shade beneath a fig tree. Easy–going, helpful and obliging hosts. French breakfasts with excellent coffee. Quiet. And continuously changing views of the Géant across the vineyards. 

www.aubergeduvin.com/

Auberge du Vin, surrounded by vineyards with great views of the Mont Ventoux

Flat out in the Camargue

85km and not a gear change needed

What better antidote to climbing the Pyrenean giant cols that a day's ride in the Camargue? After all that grunting and grinding, after the crawling upward towards the heavens, after the pain of getting down the stairs for breakfast the next day, a spin through the Camargue will put you right in no time.

Carmarge? Camargue? What's that? Well, it’s some way eastward across southern France to where the Rhône flows into the Med. Basically, it’s flat. Totally and utterly flat. That doesn’t mean it’s not interesting. There’s bulls and birds and white horses plus the opportunity to learn a bit about salt.

The Camargue is a huge salt plain. Or is it huge areas of shallow salty water held in the arms of sandy, salty spits? Here there are mighty views, massive blue skies, salt flats and weird plant life. 

 

Flamingos are just knee deep in the huge étangs

Flamingos stand up to their knees in the „étaings“ which, though huge are just 2m deep. They are home to millions of birds who come and go though the seasons. The bulls are black and bred for fighting in the ring — but also make good steaks. The white horses are everywhere, are a Camargue icon, but don’t seem to serve much purpose.

 

Mighty views and big skies

Some of the roads, which look almost non-existent on the map, are long and straight and horribly bumpy. The old surface is worn to shreds and there are plenty of holes big enough to swallow your front wheel. But they are not all too bad. There are also sand tracks and gravel roads.

 

Why does the sea water turn pink as it evaporates?

The good news is that riding the Camargue, you can easily boost your annual distance score. On the downside you won’t do anything for your altitude–climbed total. A day's cruising here is a pleasure but you should check all the bolts and nuts on your bike afterwards.

 

Weird plants and lots of salty sand - and no hills

A place to stay: if you are nostalgic for the ‘60s, try Les Cabanettes near St Gilles (see below). It's an architectural classic and doesn’t seem to have been altered since it first opened in the 1960s. Very dated and the restaurant no longer operates. But it is an experience.

Original poster

Pyrenees: where the weather wins

Sunshine all the way: Languedoc, Camargue, Provence, Cevennes, the Pyrenees. Southern France is good for cycling. Hot, sunny weather. Choose where you want to ride and...go for it.

But it doesn’t always quite work out like that. After a few days riding in the Eastern Pyrenees around the town of Foix, a big col is planned in the high mountains. Bagneres de Bigorre is sandwiched between two cols, the d'Espin and  it’s more famous brother, the Tourmalet. All roads from Bagneres go in the same direction: upwards. Everyone on a bike is intent on the big one, the long haul to 2000m. 

„Done that“ a few years ago, so this year's target was the Col d'Espin at 1480m. But the weather was having none of it. It’s all very well struggling up a mountain for the psychological high. But if you can't see when or if you have reached the top because a cloud is sitting on it, all the effort is wasted. And riding down 1200 vertical meters in the rain is neither wise nor fun. Sometimes the weather has to win and common sense prevail.

 

Topping out on the Col des Polomières

But all is not lost. An afternoon outing to the little Col des Polomières at 810m proved to be more than a walk in the park. And riding on through Lies to make a circuit, where the descent is too steep to let it rip, makes this a challenging but short circuit.

 

In the Gorges de Ribaou

Around Foix there are plenty of more modest passes to climb even when it is overcast. From Saint Girons lovely rides along through the Gorges de Ribaou to the Salat, Garbet and Ustou valleys culminating in a climb to the Col de Latrape at 1111m.

There's plenty of good riding to be enjoyed along the length of the Pyrenees. But this is mountain country and here the weather changes fast. And here the weather wins.

Languedoc: roads like gizzards

It’s raining in the Pyrenees. We’re driving across France looking for some cycling action. The forecast for the classic cols doesn’t look good. So how to find new cycling territory? Squiggly roads is the answer.

The Route du Soleil towards Barcelona traverses much of the south of France. Just to the north is Haut Languedoc and a glance at a good map reveals lots of squiggly roads. Twists and turns as tight as gizzards indicate hills if not mountains. There are plenty of tiny white lanes as well as the secondary roads marked yellow. Many roads feature a green line at the side — scenic routes.

 

The start of the big squiggly descent

Putting this „squiggly“ criterion to the test:

The D609 from Saint Pons de Thomieres is a squiggly. It climbs some 600m over 10km. A steady, winding ride on a good surface. At the Col de Cabaretou turn right on the D169 the Route du Lacs. This is a pleasant enough road though since the logging, it hardly deserves the green stripe.

Suddenly it plunges into the Agout valley, writhing and twisting down to the stream. Take a right towards Olargues and the road climbs steadily in gentle curves. From the Col de Fontfroide there are 12km of curly convolutions on the map..

This is the real squiggly test. A 12km, 800m descent. Some spectacular views, long drops and brilliant riding. Not too steep but fast and fun. 

The road back to Saint Pons is smooth and easy. The circuit a total of 55km and 1,100 altitude metres. 

 

Olargues at the bottom of the big descent

Looking at the map showed that here in the Languedoc there are some challenging and beautiful rides even if they haven’t the cachet of the Greats in the Pyrenees. All you need is a good map and good legs. 

 

Profile of the circuit - 1100 altitude metres

Map: Michelin Departmental 339, 1:150,000 fits the bill. 

Coffee: Café de France in St Pons: a „Grand Café Noir Double“ hits the spot as long as the waitress survives the sprint across the road from the bar to the tables

Overnight : La Cerisaie in Riols — a comfortable b&b plus table d'hôte 

https://cerisaie.net/

OÖ: far from the madding crowd

Imagine a road, where traffic is rare, where birds sing, trees hang down to give shade and crops are quietly growing as far as the eye can see.

Then think of the news: “monstrous” queues for the Eiffel Tower, hours of waiting to cross the English Channel, traffic in huge jams all across Europe, flights delayed and airports stuffed with frustrated travellers, Spanish life guards on strike and no-one can go in the sea – despite temperatures above 40^oC.

 

Bike routes are clearly signposted

Even at the height of holiday season madness, there are places where riding a bike can be done in peace and solitude.

The R1 route along the Danube from the German border at Passau to Vienna is Austria’s cycle autobahn. About 40,000 make the trip each year – most at the height of summer. Lonely it isn’t.

 

Good roads where traffic is rare

But much of the route is in Upper Austria (Oberösterreich) which has a huge network of bike routes and good maps to guide the rider. The routes are exceptionally well signposted and lead through peaceful, rural countryside. Many of them spring from the Danube so if you are unhappy about dodging the many long, wobbly chains of unaccustomed riders, take a route to the left or right.

 

This is vegetable country

The R17, for example runs for 67km southwards along the Trattnach, an insignificant stream passing the towns of Eferding and Grieskirchen, leading deep into the countryside. The trail follows the valley so there are no significant ups or downs. Mostly it is on small country lanes with next to no traffic.

 

Huge, beautifully-maintained farmhouses dot the landscape

As well as 31 of these mapped and indicated routes, there are a number of linking routes, equally well signposted which take riders from one main route to another. With a good map, there are hundreds more tiny lanes to explore and find cycling peace.

And what is to be seen along the way? Huge and beautifully maintained farm buildings, crops of all sorts - the area around Eferding is famous for its vegetables – small villages with lovely churches, and tiny roadside chapels. What more could you want?

Also in this blog: 

Muhlviertel – rolling round the border August 2015

Enns Radweg . never again, and again August /2017

Maps and information:

www.oberoesterreich.at

Adige Bike Route – lonely no more

Heading towards the mountains along the Adige bike trail

What a contrast! After writing about the loneliness of the long distance cyclist along the Po river in Italy, things changed. But for the better? That’s the question. 

 

Crossing the Adige river  in Verona

Heading northwards. Leaving the flat Po plains and heading for the mountains. Riding up the Adige river from Verona. The cycle trail is excellent. Smooth, clearly signposted, free of traffic and rising so gently you’d hardly notice it – apart from one nasty hill.

It is so good, it is attracting business. Tour companies who provide bikes, helmets, guide, book hotels and arrange just about everything, are attracting cyclists who like having all but the pedalling done for them. Some hardly need to pedal as they have hired e-bikes.

 

Cooling spray for the apple orchards - a bit of a shower would be welcome on a hot ride

They ride downstream and we are riding up. It’s like swimming against the tide. Groups of 20 or more on rattly bikes but with little “road sense“ are riding two abreast, concentrating on pedalling and focussed on the wheel of the guy in front. Never mind the idiot going in the opposite direction. 

It is good to see so many people experiencing the pleasure of bike touring. It is, as I say, bringing business. Hotels are full, group organisers are busy, delivery drivers are buzzing from hotel to hotel with the luggage, bike sales must be booming. Cynics might say this has nothing to do with adventure but is creating the illusion without the joy of chance encounters.

 

Neumarkt, one of the attractive towns along the Adige

Meanwhile, approaching Bolzano, the traffic thickens. It's Saturday and the local racing clubs are out in force. And moving fast. The locals are out for a gentle spin, riding to the shops, taking the children for a ride. Occasionally old school bike tourists thread their way through the stream. 

 

Old school bike tourist?
Who is this guy, seen riding along the Pustertal in June?

The old school are the purists. Simple bikes, modest load of luggage. No fixed plan, flexible. Quietly cruising along. Free as a bird.  A nod towards like–minded on-comers. It’s regrettable that with the greatly increased traffic, the spirit of cameraderie decreases and mutual co-operation wanes. In 1000km covered, we had few discussions with on-comers about what lies ahead for each of us. Far fewer than in the past.

There are plenty of castles along the way 

Contrast these with the juggernaut drivers. Huge upright black e–bikes. The command centre fitted with Garmin gear preloaded with the detailed route which must be followed. Mobile phone and maps attached to the handlebar along with the e-bike controller to monitor progress. Then, as well as the battery, there is a backup, a supplementary power source for the Garmin and phone etc. On the back is half a ton of essential luggage. Cynics might say this has nothing to do with adventure but a work out for gadget geeks.

Breakfast conversation in German in the hotel:

Him: do you speak German?

Me: yes

Him: are you German?

Me: no

Him: where are you going?

Me: North. You?

Him: South. We rode 125km yesterday

Me: mmmm... (thinks: on an e-bike, downhill, no big deal)

I think he only struck up the conversation to tell me this.

The handlebars on this guy's bike came up to my chest. The „cockpit“ looked like something from star wars. Our simple, steel Roberts touring bikes looked like toys beside it.

 

Riding on former rail tracks is a treat - even up hill.
This is heading north towards the Brenner Pass from Bolzano

Bolzano is a maelstrom of two wheel traffic going at very different speeds, with different objectives on bikes as different as Italy’s plains behind us are from the Alps ahead.  But it works. Sadly, amid so much activity there is no time or inclination for greetings. Whereas once a raised hand, a „hi“ or even a smile was the norm, here not a twitch or a grunt of recognition.

Riding towards the Brenner Pass

 At least, when we were riding along the Po almost every rider had a greeting: salve, buon giorno, even a forza!

Once past Bolzano, heading towards the Brenner Pass, the traffic thins to a trickle. Racers out training. A few tourists heading south. Maybe loneliness is not so bad after all. 

Counting the cycle traffic -
here, near Brixen, only 17 had passed by 9am and 25,425 in the year to date

Po Bike Route 3 – reflections

Even small towns have lovely piazzas

The ink was hardly dry on the new edition of Bikeline’s Po river cycling guide as we set off. Perversely we rode upriver from Venice rather than down from the Turin end. Reckoning on it being exceedingly flat, it didn’t matter which way we went. The guide, however, is written for downriver riders.

Once we found the raised dike which keeps the river from flooding too large an area, navigation was easy. Keep riding along the raised dam – asphalt surface, not a hill in sight.

 

Easy riding, not a hill in sight

Not much else in sight either. After an hour you have seen it all. Fields of corn and wheat. A few houses. The river, fat, dark and seemingly motionless. This is how it will be for the next few days. Tomato and rice fields come later as a welcome diversion.

 

Tomatoes - a welcome change from the maize fields

It’s rare to find a village without a bar. A good espresso costs just €1 everywhere. The bar serves as the meeting point for the village men loudly discussing politics. Their bikes are parked around the bar. Ours come in for scrutiny. “How do you change the gears?” “Campagnolo!  Bene!” “Questo?” What’s this for? One guy explains that on his first bike, the gear changer was located down near the back axle on the seat stay – it must have been a long time ago.

 

Detailed examination of our bikes at a bar:
"Questo?" "Campagnolo, Bene"

For a week the scenery hardly changes. Days go by, each with just 50 vertical meters of climbing. More bars, more coffee. Reasonable prices in hotels. Good food. Hardly a touring cyclist to be seen. Just the local racers who, at least, give a welcome call, “Salve, Forza!”.

 

Every village has a bar. Every bar has good coffee,
Every bar is the place for political discussion

So why ride the length of the river Po?  You will know the answer as you arrive in one of the historic cities along its length. Ferrara, Cremona, Piacenza, Pavia, Casale Monferrato. Bumping along terrible cobbled streets you are riding back into another age.

Beautiful classical buildings, narrow lanes you just have to stroll down, tall houses in warm earthy colours hiding the gardens and courtyards glimpsed through gateways. Cathedrals, castles and civic buildings in a grand and opulent scale face huge piazzas of perfect proportions.

 

Cremona, beautiful buildings, large piazzas, relaxed atmosphere

And the piazzas are lined with bars and cafes offering classic surroundings for people-watching, relaxing and nibbling on the extras that come with the drinks.

 

Cremona, the piazzas are lined with bars and cafés

Even in the smaller towns there are delights to savour. In Ostiglia is a b&b in a magnificent, recently restored fifteenth century palace, right in the town centre. Elsewhere, even in small villages, there are huge, perfectly proportioned piazzas…and of course a bar.

 

Ostiglia, the breakfast room in a fifteenth century palace

The river rolls along like molten sticky toffee. There’s not much activity. Few boats or landing stages. The countryside sweats under a hot sun and villages and towns are linked by some shocking roads and, sometimes, bike routes which are surprisingly smooth. 

 

Cremona is the home of the violin makers

The Po Bike trail, part of Eurovelo 8 crossing Europe from Spain to Greece, is a work in progress. Signage is sometimes good but often patchy, the trail is sometimes hard to lose and at others hard to find. Ride the Po? Yes, you won’t gather many altitude meters but you will have a cultural feast.

Casale Monferrato, narrow lanes, warm colours, bumpy cobbles