The perfect one-day ride

What features would you select for the perfect one-day bike ride? Here’s a circuit which seems to have everything. Does it fit your profile?

Starting with a gentle climb, first through vineyards, then cherry orchards with the soft voices of pickers chatting as they work.  The early morning sun is glistening on the white tower atop the Mont Ventoux and highlighting its bare stone crown.

 

Looking back over the olive grove to the village of Flasan

Then a little steeper through a tiny close-clustered village and glance over your shoulder for views across the olive orchard to the ochre walls of the houses huddled round the church. The rocky soil is the brown of a milky coffee.

The climb is steady. The road is pretty good for France. The traffic?…there is no traffic. The scent of scrubby bush, herbs and wild flowers basking in the sunshine, waft over you. Across the Rhône valley the mountains of the Cevennes are blue humps in the far distance. Towering above the route is the bald summit of the Mont Ventoux. But we aren’t going this way.

 

The Mont Ventoux towers over the route, but we aren't going up there

At 900m this climbing is nearly done. There has been no further sign of habitation. The road slips into a forest. Stunted oaks, diminutive pines and bushes. This might be truffle country. Across the D1 highway is another small road winding around the side of the hill.

This road finally breaks out further along the D1. Big views all around: the town of Sault, lavender fields in the valley below, mountains in the distance. The descent is steep, breathtaking – fast, smooth and there’s even a strip for cyclists.

 

Even from the highest point, you can smell the lavender in the fields below

At the bottom the lavender fields are long lines of bluish-purple. The air is heavy with their scent. Turn right into a valley, a gentle climb, another golden village clambering up the hillside.

At the top of the hill, the valley narrows, this is the start of the Gorges de la Nesque. From here the road descends steadily all the way to the start of the ride. Switchbacks, swinging bends, short tunnels carved out of the rock. Huge drop-offs into the gorge.  Cliffs towering high above the road. Umpteen photo opportunities. Down into the narrow cleft between grey rock. The ride of dreams.

 

The ride of dreams - the Gorges de Nesque

At the end of the gorge, a left turn and roll back to the start. Right in front of you, the Café du Soleil. Chairs and tiny tables full of cyclists who have also just had the ride of a lifetime. Time for coffee, or better still, a pression.

Start and finish: Villes-sur-Auzon, Vaucluse, Provence, France

Route taken: Villes-sur-Auzon, D19 to Flasan. D217 to La Gabelle, D1, D942 via Monieux, Gorges de la Nesque, Villes-sur-Auzon

Map: Michelin Departments 332, Drôme, Vaucluse

Distance: 57km

Climb: 1184m (Garmin)
Links: http://europeanrandonneur.blogspot.co.at/2016/07/10-reasons-for-cycling-in-provence.html
http://europeanrandonneur.blogspot.co.at/2015/09/mont-ventoux-take-it-easy.html

Profile

Café du Soleil - a fitting conclusion to a perfect ride

10 reasons for cycling in Provence

Think of the south of France and what comes to mind? Super yachts, expensive hotels and casinos, the glitterati? Just a little way north of the beaches are the hills and vineyards of Provence. Warm and sunny, with a crowd of small villages, bustling markets, good food, cheap wine, reasonable hotels and b&bs, and wonderful opportunities for some unforgettable bike rides. Here’s why you should give it a go. 

1 Roads

The web of tiny roads offer endless choices and variety - all you need is a Michelin Departmental map 332 for Drôme and Vaucluse. However, the roads are sometimes terrible, patched, cracked, crumbling, potholed and rough. They will, at least, make you realise how lucky you are when you next ride back home.

2 Aroma

Pines, thyme, rosemary: the scent of the wild flowers and plants along the verges accompany every ride. Lavender fields baking under the sun are almost overwhelming .

3 Bonjour! Perdu?

Stop to look at a map and "Bonjour! Perdu?" Helpful friendly people to help guide you on your way.

4 Bars, boulangerie

You're never far from a bar for a grand cafe noir or from a boulangerie for French picnic classics.

One thing that I like, a baguette on my bike

5 Wine

Rich Rhone reds, crackling rosés. Vineyards everywhere. There are no bad wines here.

Bottle - caged

6 Villages perché

Ochre-walled houses, huddled on a hilltop, lure you up the long steady climbs. At the top, huge views, steep-stepped alleys, a bar and a rest.

7 Weather

Hours of sunshine, lashings of sun cream, loose muscles, limber joints, warm evenings, a long hot summer. Beware the Mistral's chilly blasts from the north, strong enough to knock you off your bike.

8 Cols

The cols (passes) are everywhere. There's rarely a col without a reward at the top: a sign to say how high you are. After a long climb it's the moment you know you've done it. The thrill of the descent is about to begin.

 

This Col features on the 2016 Tour de France

9 Mont Ventoux

The cyclist's Mecca. The Géant dominates every view. It's one of the great rides whichever way you choose to ride up.

http://europeanrandonneur.blogspot.co.at/2015/09/mont-ventoux-take-it-easy.html

Mont Ventoux: towering over the vineyards

10 Pedal Power

Possibly more cyclists per kilometer than anywhere other than Amsterdam. Friendly French riders: always a bonjour or a wave. Motorised traffic waiting patiently behind. Bunches of riders in the latest tricots. Cyclists rule here. OK! 

Oh, and here is another reason: the Auberge du Vin, Mazan

Surely one of the best b&bs anywhere. Nice people, surrounded by vineyards, brilliant coffee, good wines, fabulous view of the Mont Ventoux.

www.aubergeduvin.com

Auberge du Vin - vineyards on every side